I would have thought 300 would pull the old latex up off the floor, and fail. Na is the better option, if your going over the existing.
i had it done today, the guy used stopgap 1200 pro, my wife was home, she said that he sanded the old latex floor first, then applied the compound. She said the she didn't see him use a primer, would that be a problem? He is coming back tomorrow to sand it down. Is there anything else that he should be doing? I have noticed that it's not exactly perfect and is does have a couple of high and low spots. I also have compound on a freshly painted feature wall.. before after
So what your saying is... He didn't prime it which he should have especially if he's been sanding and creating dust which could hinder bonding and also not priming reduces the flow of the product hence it's not smooth so he needs to sand again which he'd need to prime after sanding again due to creating more dust and opening up the finished surface of the product He's then probably going to put ten ton of feather finish over it it try and sort out his message If I've read this correctly you've got under floor heating to so feather finish shouldn't be used if that's his plan ? Is the UFH switched off ??
UFH was switched off the day before and it's still off now. He did say that the compound dried kind of quick, but I don't know exactly why as the heating was off and the floor was cold the night before. What else can be done apart from the feather finish? Any suggestions on how to remove dried compound from the wall without having to paint again?
I had a look online for feather finish product and most of them are compatible with UFH. Why do you say it shouldn't be used?
You can't use feather finish on UFH it's to weak When the UFH is on the lvt will try to expand and pull on the adhesive which will intern pull on the feather which will just peel off the floor That's the floor fooked and start again
A lot of products say you do certain things with them but All tec sheets will only say what their product does and can do not what happens when you do something else afterwards
It doesn't look to bad in my opinion, the photo is problably not the best representation, but there are some places where the compound wasn't pushed enough and it kind of dipping..
Have you got a long spirt level or something straight andown long you can lay over the surface On even just rub your hands over it. That'll give you a good idea how smooth it is. Everything will show through the the lvt especially if you have natural light shinning across the floor
That's how I've noticed a couple of dippings, when I felt it my hand..I'm not going to lay the LVT yet. should it still be primed after sanding or wait till just before I lay the LVT?
Hoover it let the dust settle hoover again prime it twice mixed to the correct ration Or just get it screeded aging property
I agree, but don't tell my wife that as she's painted that wall and it's the last thing I want to do, again. Guy come back, sanded it, didn't prime it, apparently the feather finish wasn't included in the price and we did mention after doing the job that the 1200 isn't self leveling.. I was looking to get Karndeen Van Gogh Macrocapra, is it any good, does anyone recommend something similar?
for some reason this contractor said he would recomment pressure sensitive adhesive instead of HT, what do you think?
