Are you not worried you won’t get a bond to those plastic wires? I would prefer to prime the matts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With a water based I would be I use tilemaster super 30 That’s uzin PE280 primer on PE 404 DPM under that mat
Gloves are a must laying this stuff BTW the mesh is fibre glass Not nice to handle same as handling Uzin reinforcement mesh or crack repair
I really really hate screeding over that stuff. As you say mate, never fixed down properly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've never touched UFH so I'd be reluctant to install it myself tbh, basically I work for a kitchen company who have a bathroom (7m2) coming up with UFH (T2 Quicknet 90 to be precise 3mm) all their work is sub'd out so I could be walking into a room where the matting is already down. In that situation I'm wanting to prime it, do a nice 8mm layer and go back the next day to fit the Karndean. Is that legit going to work.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If your putting down 8mm you wanna get the ufh turned on and run for a day before you go back and fit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Or they will turn the heating on as soon as you walk out the door and your lvt will be trying to flap off the floor Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Haha tbh it may well go down thinner like 5/6mm if it's decent, would the same still apply? I've read I'd have to leave it for 48 hours after the UFH is switched off before I can fit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Some ufh matts have a minimum thickness some need a 10mm. Leave it as long as you can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Normally two 6mm coats The max temp is the most important thing With wet systems aboutv 14mm above the pipes just coz they can get so hot Electric is easier to control
You would still have to prime before first coat even when using NA? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s always better to prime reguardless what compound your using It increases the flow and workablility as well as giving a greater bond