I’ve been asked by a friend to fit some sisal in a room 7m x 4 m . Although I’ve been fitting for over 30years it’s something I’ve never done and always shied away from , but as it’s a good mate I’ve said yes . Could any of you give me advice on the best way / method of fitting please . Want to remain friends afterwards if possible !!!
Smooth out the sub-floor, tacky the underlay down (or use egalsoft), use blind gripper, open it out and rough cut in then leave 24 hours before fitting it, glue it down and tell him to not get it wet Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also it's best to seal all cuts Watered down PVA works best as it soaks in to the weave and dries clear Fill a seam sealer bottle and run a bead in the gripper gap before tucking down
I use normal gripper, with a six to 7 mm gap from the skirting. Have never found the need to acclimatize, and have never had an issue with this, and been fitting it since 1990. Also, never found the need to fit underlay the previous day (another recommendation.) Underlay, especially PU gets a much better hold with F3 than the recommended F40. Set the width selvedge slightly proud, and then if enough material has been allowed by the estimator, cut a straight line along the sisal weave length so that you get straight lines length and width, then set length also slightly proud. Fold a section back to begin adhesive application, but not too much so as to allow the sisal to move. I usually do about 2 m rather than attempting half the room area. Sometimes I long tong it, pulling back the section opposite the width set wall. Drop the sisal into the adhesive immediately after application, while absolutely wet, rather than allowing the F3 to tack first. This will allow you to quickly move the length and width to obtain the correct tuck amount, and to glide out all bumps and trapped air without the glue grabbing and preventing this. It's important to do this without unnecessary walking or kneeling over the section that has been adhered which would bond it and not allow movement. Once set with 3 mm or so up the skirting, I spray adhesive the gripper, then tuck and rake onto the pins, then glide away from the gripper into the body. When you have accomplished these nice straight lines, the rest is easy. At the other end make sure all of your length cuts have the 3mm or so tuck amount, otherwise the edges will appear frayed. By the same token, if you attempt to tuck too much sisal into the gripper, it is very unforgiving and will look terrible. The widths are a lot easier to tuck neatly than the lengths. Use a proper carpet adhesive trowel blade, not a vinyl or LVT one. Some trade secrets there.
We never use to acclimatise sisal either. Never had a problem. I’ve only seen 2 Sisla carpets shrink. Neither were fitted by us and Both were acclimatised. Both were stuck well to the underlay but the underlay was not stuck well. A good double stick and the right area it shouldn’t move. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All carpets are meant to be acclimatise but no one actually does it! Unless it’s a contractor that’s got time to do that. Can’t see it going down well in mrs Jones’s house Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Anyone that fits a lot of it will tell you that’s rubbish. Just another manufacturer waffle to pass the blame on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Only time I ever had a natural flooring shrink was when system 10 underlay came out, and Duralay made the claim that their 10mm crumb rubber was dimensionally stable and didn't need adhering to the floor, only the carpet to the underlay. Next day it was an inch short. Another con is the claim that only certain underlays are compatible with Durafit or double stick systems. This was and still is an excuse and a scam to inflate the prices of these certain products. I have used all manner of underlay brands with double stick, and as long as the underlay takes the glue and wont delaminate, it is perfectly fine to use. I also fitted literally hundreds of hall stairs and landings in seagrass without ever a wear problem or anyone slipping on the steps. Use to fit the material sideways down the length of the stairs (90 degrees to how a conventional carpet would be installed), stapled under the nose, American style.
So does Polysafe safetyfloor standard, (try templating or cutting it in, then leaving it on site and then fitting it the following morning,) but no one suggests leaving it overnight to acclimatize. Because once correctly adhered, it is dimensionally stable, (relatively so.)
Lol, hopefully not anymore. I’m now on to the latest adhesive to stop it. They just keep bringing out new ones so I’m sure one will finally work one day. I thought of you the other day. Had a kitchen with a 6m x 6m sky lantern. Could just imagine you up there paperfelting it to block out the sun Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk