I only use the wood ones on about a quarter turn less than full speed the faster you go the hotter they get and you end up with a lot of crap build up on the teeth, using them with a sideways sawing motion if I nick a nail or screw I just use an old blade and cut through the nail it takes a minute or to but saves a new blade then swap back to decent blade to finish
Yes, for some reason we all presume that a blade will cut better and fast the faster we run the saw. I learnt a few years ago at a training day with Festool that this is so wrong. A blade will have its optimum speed. To slow and it will cut slow, to fast and the blade will cause extra heat and coat the blades which will actualy wear the blade faster and cut slower. Anyone that owns a festool item will note that festool colour code there blades to what speed they should run at. Festool's saws have a speed control on them, you set the speed and if you move the saw to fast it will actually speed up the motor to the correct speed and if you move the saw slow it will slow the motor down also. Clever stuff.
Strange that, you'd think the other manufacturers would put a speed dial on there compound mitre saws to allow for different blades/ materials.
We sell a fair number of Jamb saws (Roberts both types) only known one to come back that was a motor problem, We waiting for Roberts version of the Multi master, should be in this month. Regards Rugrat www.carpetfittersshoponline.co.uk
my fein is broken it powers up but seems like the clutch is slipping anyone know anywhere that fixes these?
I have the longneck & it is pretty handy in that you can cut doors upto 43mm also if you use the depressed( no jokes please) centre blade you can cut flush to floor( if you've got the bottle).
These are spot on, got 10 of them and still on the first 1. Cut out a couple of meters of engineered from under a shower and bath. Turning the speed down has probably helped too!
