How to build up floor level ?

Hi guys, I have a new conservatory to do where its new concrete 2 weeks old (98% RH), and where it meets existing floor in house t&g boards the concrete is 30mm lower. Was thinking I would use Arditex NA with aggregate to build up near level, Ardex DPC 1 coat, then top off with K15 & P82 primer. Karndean will be flooring fitted. Whats ratio for NA to aggregate ? is it 1 bag n bottle to 1 bag aggregate. Anyone got any better ideas trying to keep costs down, looked at Ardex a35 but not got the mixer needed or experience in sand cement screed laying. It's 13m2 in total how much of each will I need to buy?

 

You cant test a foor untill its been down 4 weeks but as we know it will be wet forchippins for building up allow 1 bag chippings for every 2 bags of screed if mymaths are correct you will need 30 bags screed but will use less once the chippings go in for a cheaper screed look at mapei screed and dpm

 

Epoxy primer then latexplan with chippings dpm 1c/1K turbo/F75(6) etc.. after 4 weeks prime then anything less than 30nm over the top. NA won't work as the compression strength is so low around 16nm you'd need to use the same or lower over the top of it mate.

 

Could be more cost effective to get it Asphalted ?

 

Mapei topcem?

 

seconded, although it will limit what floorcoverings can go down i.e. you can't bond solid or engineered wood to it too weak

 

never used the stuff is it any good?

 

Tarkett85;75201]Epoxy primer then latexplan with chippings dpm 1c/1K turbo/F75(6) etc.. after 4 weeks prime then anything less than 30nm over the top. NA won't work as the compression strength is so low around 16nm you'd need to use the same or lower over the top of it mate.[/QUOTE]

Reading this sounds like your saying use 1kturbo or f75 as a 1coat dpm f75 is a 2 coat system and depending on rh you will prob need to 2 coat 1k turbo but f76 is a 1 coat but only upto 92%

 

Thanks, I thought you could use a harder water based screed over a dpm even if a softer latex screed under that, as dpm harder than water based. F ball techs told me not to use harder over softer but dpm's are differnt. Whats the 4 weeks bit?
Been looking at Laybond Ultimate thats pretty cheap and have used it before with no problems bulked up

 

[QUOytarkett85;75204]seconded, although it will limit what floorcoverings can go down i.e. you can't bond solid or engineered wood to it too weak[/QUOTE]

Its says in first post karndean is the flooring to go down

 

Reading this sounds like your saying use 1kturbo or f75 as a 1coat dpm f75 is a 2 coat system and depending on rh you will prob need to 2 coat 1k turbo but f76 is a 1 coat but only upto 92%[/QUOTE]

All dependant on RH% mate if over 92% F75 or Ardex DPM, if under 1K Turbo DPM 1C/F46 etc... sorry it wasn't clear

 

Its says in first post karndean is the flooring to go down[/QUOTE]

sorry missed that bit, plus in the future if they decide to change it to wood they'll have to dig up the asphalt

 

sorry missed that bit, plus in the future if they decide to change it to wood they'll have to dig up the asphalt[/QUOTE]
Thats a big if

 

Thats a big if[/QUOTE]

true mate but I would always tell them upfront the possible pitfalls of doing it any way

 

[QUmmo;75214]sorry missed that bit, plus in the future if they decide to change it to wood they'll have to dig up the asphalt[/QUOTE]
Thats a big if[/QUOTE]

No this is a big if If ​

 

Also as I said not confident with a sand cement mix, what you think bout initial plan tho it should be ok laybonds best price for me. Going to call technical in the morning

 

Could you not leave it to dry out and ply over it?

 

I could wait but it may take months, what type of ply would you use and how you fix it, screw down?

 

something ive never been keen on, as in my eyes theres always the risk of moisture creeping through the ply.
Concrete/solid floors = screed
wooden/chipboard = ply
Thtas just my opinion tho
I would like to hear others on this tho, in case im wrong

 

Yeah screw it down. WBP ply