Engineered wood floor in kitchen dinner - seal or waxoil?

Discussion in 'Wood' started by bmoon, Jun 13, 2014.

  1. bmoon

    bmoon New Member

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    Hi all,

    I have a few novice questions which I am sure many of you will be able answer.

    I am planning to float 14mm engineered wood flooring with click fitting in our kitchen&dinner (new build house). The first decision to make is whether I should use 'lacquered' or 'hardwax oiled'. For 'lacquered', I remember I read somewhere the edges between the planks need to be sealed with transparent silicon to prevent water from getting into the gaps and damaging the clicking system. This makes me tempted to choose 'hardwax oiled'.

    So my first question is, would 'hardwax oil' be good enough to seal the edges? (I plan to use the OSMO original hardwax oil.)

    Second question is, if I am to apply the hardwax oil myself, should I get the 'unfinished' wood flooring?

    Not sure if the last question suit here but in case anyone has an answer... is OSMO hardwax oil safe enough for a pregnant lady (not me)

    Thanks very much for any advice.

    Best,
    BM
     
  2. tea one-sugar

    tea one-sugar Well-Known Member

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    hi-its very unlikely that you will get enough water on the wood to damage it,most water damage in kitchens comes form leaking washing machines and the underneath gets blown over time.If you are expecting that much water on the surface you would be better of with a clic vinyl tile .Don,nt forget that if you fit your floor with the skirtings on top you can get the vat off as it is a new build.Lacqure or oiled is a personal choice more to do with the look,but if you put another coat of lacqure on after fitting it will give a better seal on the joints.
     
  3. Wes

    Wes Well-Known Member

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    Use a 'click seal' product that is applied to the joins as the flooring gets installed. Sometimes called 'click guard' 'loc guard' etc..Make sure you apply it well and consistently and you'll be fine..
     
  4. Trimmer

    Trimmer Well-Known Member

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    Use a tongue and groove glue system. The PVA D3 adhesive dries clear and takes a he'll of a lot of water to break down
     
  5. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    If your going to apply lacquer or hardwax oil you need to apply both to a unfinished floor!
    Oil will have to be re applied to keep it looking good, lacquer is maintenance free but if it takes on a lot of water it will go grey and lift leaving you with no choice but to sand off and replace
     
  6. bmoon

    bmoon New Member

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    Thanks so much for your helpful replies guys. We actually went to a show room today and ordered T&G wax oiled boards. Previously we only looked at small pieces of samples, and when comparing on larger laid boards, wax oil finish certainly looks much more attractive. Plus it is much easier to repair scratches on wax oiled floors rather than lacquered.

    The shop owner suggested 'Bona D700 Adhesive' for gluing the T&G, which is said to have a good resistance to water. I hope this will be sufficient but I will look into the 'PVA D3 adhesive'. The boards are wax oiled, so I will not need to apply the wax oil any more in the near future (which my pregnant mrs is very happy about).

    Thanks again for your inputs. Now I will just wait for the delivery....
     
  7. DM Flooring

    DM Flooring Well-Known Member

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    Which delivery or both of them. Lol
     
  8. Trimmer

    Trimmer Well-Known Member

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    The Bona D700 is what I use. D3 is a classification
     
  9. bmoon

    bmoon New Member

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    Of course both.. but I hope they won't arrive together...:cool:
     
  10. bmoon

    bmoon New Member

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    I see. I was wondering what D3 means as it's in the description for Bona D700.
     

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