Quarry Tiles

Discussion in 'Subfloor Preparation' started by Scooby, Feb 14, 2015.

  1. Scooby

    Scooby Member

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    [​IMG]Evening Guys :thumbs

    Newbie here looking for some advice regards a Kitchen floor project I intend to sort out very soon.


    Ok, here goes...


    I have Quarry tiles down at the moment which we would like to replace with some Laminate flooring. I believe there is no DPM down and I'd obviously have to now put some in with me going with Laminate.

    I have lifted a tile under the Kitchen units to reveal a thin ish layer of tile adhesive on a concrete base.

    Piccy







    I have an area of around 14m² to cover. I originally thought I'd leave the tiles as they are pretty solidly in place although there are one or two slightly raised ones (intended to flatten the offenders somehow!)

    Would I be better taking the tiles up? I really wanted to avoid the extra hassle of this but I do realise I am trying to cut a corner or two!

    I intended to use the following products.

    Sugersoap for cleaning tiles.

    F Ball Stopgap 1200 Pro

    Blackjack Liquid DPM or 1000 Gauge sheeting

    5mm Underlay


    Apologies for rambling on, just trying to get my views across correctly ;)


    Advice please chaps on what to do???


    Thanks.
     
  2. Scooby

    Scooby Member

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    Finally it's been approved :) thanks Mods, now please don't all answer at once :D
     
  3. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Are you a floor layer ?
     
  4. Scooby

    Scooby Member

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    No, can't you tell :D just thought I'd have a go at this little project myself and was just after some advice seeing as their seems to be a lot of decent people on here who know what they are talking about.

    I have read quite a few posts on here then got hit with a sign up demand to keep on viewing so I did :D enjoyed reading the posts.
     
  5. Matt

    Matt Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    really you need to know if there is a dpm or not . you might find you do have one as the tiles are bonded to the concrete. This would normally indicate that you do have a dpm. However it does not mean its working.

    So really you need to do a moisture test. A Hygrometer should be used for this.

    Once you know this you can plan what system your going to use. I would not be using teh blackjack DPM system you are talking about tho.
     
  6. Scooby

    Scooby Member

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    Ok, cheers Matt I'll scrub the Blackjack DPM and go with a DPM sheet.

    I'll look into doing a moisture test, I'll probably tape a plastic sheet to the floor first for 24hrs and see the results THEN do a proper test.
     
  7. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    How old is the sub floor? If a old floor before 1965 it won't have a DPM.
    Sometimes you don't need to do a moisture test if you ask the right questions.
     
  8. Scooby

    Scooby Member

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    No idea if it's accurate or not but the Mortgage papers say approx year built 1970.

    We bought it two years ago.

    Edit* just to add I just found the Homebuyers report that I had done and that says year built 1975!
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2015
  9. Matt

    Matt Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    so you should defo have a dpm then. Hence above i said i think you have one by seeing the type of floor construction. but again, like i say it does not mean its working.
     
  10. Scooby

    Scooby Member

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    Duly thanked boss ;)

    Do you think I should put another down then Matt? double 'safety' so to speak?? I'm guessing it wouldn't do any harm.
     
  11. Matt

    Matt Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    you can if you like but your wasting your money if you dont need one. Also its not as simple as just putting one down if you dont have a dpm as you have to take into account hydrostatic pressure , additional subfloor prep etc.

    Hopefully if your dpm is working which i would guess it is, you can simply clean the tiles , prime with 131 neat and then apply 1200 pro. Again this depends on how well the tiles are down.

    When you come to fitting laminate you will simply need a underlay with vapour barrier.
     
  12. Scooby

    Scooby Member

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    Cheers Matt.

    I wouldn't mind doing that as it would be less hassle and yes the tiles seem fairly solid if a little raised in places (3mm or so) however what is slightly stopped me now is the rise in height - 8mm Laminate plus 3-5mm Underlay not to mention a SLC if I went with that too!

    I may rip the tiles up to solve all the above but really could do without the extra work.
     
  13. Scooby

    Scooby Member

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    Ok, I have a couple of final questions before I let this go If you don't mind.

    1. Could I leave out the 1200 pro and go straight to Underlay with built in Vapour Barrier > Laminate? I do realise this isn't the Pro way but what would happen if I did? would the Laminate suffer in the long term??


    2. Where it meets the door to the carpeted living room the height difference would be 15-20mm if I was to leave the tiles in situ, is there a easy way to fix this?



    Thanks again.

    Scoobs.
     
  14. Matt

    Matt Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    No you cant if tiles are uneven. You still need a smooth subfloor (SR1 = 3mm in 2 meters run out)

    Door way you could use a 'z'edge or 'zig zag' that others call it .
     
  15. Matt

    Matt Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    how about you think about going on a floorskills subfloor prep course. £175 quid and learn everything you need to know about subfloor prep and what products to use to best suit budget. I have already saved you the cost of surface dpm (which will pay for course) or better still you book a 2 day laminate course which will cover this also.


    Im not saying this to sell a course. But i can 100% guaranty it will be worth it and possibly save you more than the cost of course on materials etc you might just cock up.
     

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