New builds.., that's had a smoothing compound laid....

Discussion in 'Subfloor Preparation' started by RPB, Jul 1, 2016.

  1. RPB

    RPB Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I've had a few new builds where the builders have laid a smoothing compound over the screed.. While suitable for carpets., it's never anywhere near enough good enough for LVTs..
    The one I've just done., developed a ridge part way across the middle of a room... Took the planks up., and removed the blown ridge., to find that no primer has been used., and a hairline crack in the concrete floor along the blown area..
    I've treated accordingly., and all looks good..

    When you have a new build, do you prime and smooth over existing smoothing compound.., or..., do you go down the route of removing it so you can see the concrete., and treat accordingly?

    Never had this issue before.., so don't really know if there's a right or wrong way...??
     
  2. Glenn H

    Glenn H Well-Known Member

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    I would usually primer over the top depending on the size. If it's a large area then I'd speak to the client and inform them of the possible issues of it blowing etc. That way I'm covered incase the previous sub floor preparation fails.
     
  3. mjfl

    mjfl Well-Known Member

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    If you screed on it, you then take liability of it... Grind it back, charge the customer
     
  4. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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    Ive been back on doing a fair few new builds lately and the first thing I do is chop out the ridiculous amount of sealent then spend half hr spinning off the floor with a rough pad with my str. My hoover decided to over heat and pack up last month so its back to a good sweep out then prime and screed.
     
  5. Glenn H

    Glenn H Well-Known Member

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    I've noticed there seems to be an abundance of sealant on new builds too. Good to see they do the job correctly 1st time eh :D
     
  6. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't latex and stick anything over builders levelling compound. They are all put down badly. Float something over it instead


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  7. mjfl

    mjfl Well-Known Member

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    Float it would be..lol
     
  8. Diesel10

    Diesel10 Well-Known Member

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    Rip up start again . Coz it can bite back at you If it goes wrong long term. Remember we are professionals , builders ain't
     
  9. RPB

    RPB Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I'll certainly bare that in mind for future new builds..
    (Can see my next investment already lol)
     
  10. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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    How do you normally grind the concrete?or have you not got a Buffer/str yet?
     
  11. pf flooring

    pf flooring Well-Known Member

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    I have always just got a disclaimer from the office (I know) firm I sub too sorts it all out and asks them what they want doing 99 times out of a 100 they will choose to risk it and 99 times out of a 100 its a water based with no primer they have used, if it blows (which I havent heard of yet) then they pay to have it sorted.
     
  12. Neilydun

    Neilydun Well-Known Member

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    Always the cheapest option. Retentions are only normally 12 months, and tbh unless its really bad, it will probably last that long.
     
  13. RPB

    RPB Super Moderator Staff Member

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    It's next on the list.. As a modest entry level one, what should I be looking at?
     
  14. Neilydun

    Neilydun Well-Known Member

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    Depends what you need it to do. If its just rubbing down latex and light stuff, and buffer off e-bay will do the job, with some 16 grit paper attached.
    If its a proper grinder, for multi use an Str 701 is the way to go really. Light enough to load into the van, and heavy enough to deal with most things, and very reliable.
    An Str needs the larger 5kva 32amp 110v transformer
     
  15. mjfl

    mjfl Well-Known Member

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