Hi all, I'm after some advice please. In preparation for applying Stopgap 300 to my garage floor, I decided to apply Stopgap F77 as one corner had some damp coming through the concrete. I used the majority of the F77 but have a small area at the other end of the garage untreated, so it remains bare (but dry) concrete. I'm now ready to apply my P131 Primer, but I have been advised to apply it over the F77 neat, or to the bare concrete diluted, but I have both on my floor, so I'm planning to apply P131 neat to the entire floor, including the bare concrete area rather than diluted. Would there be any problems with doing this? Thanks!
Yeah definitely a problem The whole of the concrete needs to be covered with the dpm or else its pointless And neat p131 wont but bond to the concrete
waste of time putting the 77 down if its not 100% coverage, needs a full coat applied properly or its not working.
What would happen if you built a roof, but only covered 3/4 of it it tiles and stood in the area that wasn't tiled the rain only may rain on where it had been tiled but where did the water go to ..... on your head, same thing here you will just trap the moisture and it will track down the dpc and find the area that isn't f77 and pop the stopgap
Ok, understood! I could probably get away with buying the 3kg kit as it's only a small area I wasn't able to cover but to be honest I'll probably by the 7kg kit which will allow me to give the majority of the floor a second coat as the floor I'm applying this to isn't a perfectly smooth finish so some areas are coated better than others. I presume overlapping F77 coats isn't an issue? I will then have the Stopgap 300 put down, and finally I plan to apply Watco Epoxicote High Build to this, I know of someone else applying this to Stopgap 300 and it worked fine, I presume that is the correct thing to do and I don't require anything in between these products? Thanks for the advice all
Thanks Spacey, I just went and had a closer look at the floor, in some areas it's a nice glassy smooth finish and in others it seems to thin and you can feel the conrete texture through it. I did poor it on, used the spreading blade supplied then went over with a preloaded roller as the datasheet instructed.
Would check the final strengths of all coverings to ensure none put over stress on what's underneath, can't see a problem but don't the epoxy company have a full product system to use from prep to final covering as appose to different manufacturers, is your epoxy not already moisture tolerant which does away for the need of a dpm and stopgap 300
I'm using the Stopgap 300 to create a smooth finish on the floor as my current concrete (now covered in DPM) has a rough texture. I did look at the Watco compounds but it was more expensive than the Stopgap 300 and I know of someone else that had used the Stopgap 300 with the Watco epoxy paint with no issues: "Hi george. The floor is lovely and still looks new. The stopgap was great and is the same as the day it was poured" He carried out the work in 2014.
Looking at the data sheet for Stopgap 300 it states: Compressive Strength N/mm2 (BS EN13892-2) 1 Day >20.0 7 Days >25.0 28 Days >35.0 I can't see strength listed on the Epoxicote High Build data sheet, and I can't post a link here but if someone can google "epoxicote data sheet" it's the third link down (the pdf link). Thanks
Stop gap 300 is not moisture tolerant so you would need a dpm underneath if used over a damp floor and it also isnt design for what your using it for but you'll probably get away with it. Make sure the 300 is completely dry before you sandwich it in epoxy or it could brake down and fail
Thanks for the tip Spacey, I'll ensure it's completely dry. I have some more F77 to finish the floor now and ensure it's all covered. Just a quick question, when it comes to applying the Stopgap 300, how should it be applied by the doorway? I guess the easy thing to do would be to lay it up to a batten of wood but I obviously don't want to create a step here. Ideally I want to run it up to the gap shown below and also fill it, but if 300 isn't suitable for filling gaps I would just run it up to the gap.
Thanks Spacey, you've been a great help and are really getting me out of the sh*t. I wish I had consulted this forum before starting the project. When closed the garage door sits behind the gap in the concrete shown, and I think it will look odd having the rubber diminishing strip on view from outside when the door is closed, so I want to set this back from the edge of the floor where it meets the block paving. This means whatever I screed up to will need to be able to be removed so I can paint the epoxy top coat over all the dpm and then add the diminishing strip, please see image below. Can I have some recommendations on how to do this please? Also, how the diminishing strip should be fixed to the floor. Thanks!
You can fill the crack with a45 or any external repair mortar before you screed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
