It looks more like a smoothing compound, usually much lighter than cement, almost cream colour or light brown. If you scratch it it will turn to powder Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I love doing it and get lots of it to do as well as fitters and shops don't want to entertain the prep work
You love doing everything mate. I wouldn’t mind grinding floors if I had your set up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Inter Interesting site you found there, http://buildingdefectanalysis.co.uk/flooring-defects/dealing-with-construction-moisture/
Yes, I found that article interesting too!! Anhydrite screed is not going anywhere soon, builders like it, especially with UFH. I have seen an increase in its use in my part of the country.
Going nowhere for better or worse, personally don' have an issue with the stuff but I can identify and prepare it properly mind
soon be easier for you too if you have the coin.. http://www.tradediscountshop.co.uk/?s=t.d.s&post_type=product
I hire the kit when I need it mate. We only get a few a year so not very cost effective. Like I say, the last few we’ve done the screed installers have come back and removed the laitance . they all should. We mostly stick engineered wood to them and they are great for that. Find them a pain to get consistent moisture readings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't think they will be dropping Anhydrite screeds.I t's so much cheaper than traditional methods. The Germans have been using it for successfully years.
Did a large residential last year, builder was told he could stick polyflor expona direct to the floor...... it was a right laugh going back and ripping it all up....... We got a written spec of forbo for Euro Col latex and it went on great.... as long as it’s dried and well primed you can still use cement based products
That’s a shame because it is so crap. Can’t stick solid wood floors to it. Can’t get a simple moisture reading from it. I wouldn’t trust cement products over it. I know a contractor that was told prime and 1200 will be fine by f.ball and it was until he had to lift a plank out to re cut. None of it properly bonded. We’ve had to wait over 4 months to get dry readings on them. Can’t see how new builds are getting away with it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Unfortunately these types of screeds are here to stay, we have always double primed before applying the smoothing compounds and never had a problem but some manufacturers say a single coat of primer but belt n braces is better with 2 coats of primer.
I’ve always know it to need a 2 coat primer. The first coat disappears as soon as it touches it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
your taking a gamble using cement based on it, why bother risking it when there are screed specifically designed to be used with it? to me using a cement based screed over a calcium sulphate subfloor is aking to drilling and plugging ply into concrete, it might work but its not the right way to do it
same here washy primer let it soak right in so that you get less pin holes trying to come up through it, saturate the floor is the best way Ihave found
Nope, never get pinholes with a good first coat. Unless it’s a really shite concrete. If I had issues with the levelling maybe I would Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Uzin 360 First coat 1-1 Second coat Neat Or Ardex P51 First coat 4-1 Second coat Neat FBall P131 In the skip
