Prep floor thats half timber half concrete

Discussion in 'Subfloor Preparation' started by Rugmunching, Jan 27, 2018.

  1. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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    Ok girls n boys I went to look at a job this morning - kitchen diner 40m2

    Over half the kitchen is sitting on floorboards thats been boarded then ceramics on top, rest is concrete that has engineered wood.

    So they now want lvt right through because the movement in the timber area has caused ceramics to crack, kitchen units & big ass island sits on top of the ceramics then the other half which is is concrete based has engineered on it (yep I know I just said that)...

    So plan is to take up ceramics (obviously under the island and units they will stay) and rip out the wood floor, board the timber section which will need to be 18mm thick ready for 4/5 mm screed renovation the whole area including the the concrete side (approx 15m2)...

    ...but the concrete side is going to take some filling so now im thinking why dont I just board the whole lot (including over the concrete - drilled and plugged) in say 18mm boards and a nice coat of renovation.

    They said they dont mind having new skirts after but because the island and units are on top of the ceramics im going to need to bring that level back up anyway once Ive had the pleasure of ripping it out.

    What you reckon? Im looking for the cheaper way of the 2 to keep the quote down as much as I can seeing as they are good friends of a mate.

    Hit me peeps :cool:
     
  2. lvtfooringbristol.co.uk

    lvtfooringbristol.co.uk Active Member

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    Ahh so you need to use 18mm to bring the height up to the kitchen units ... Yeh so I'd 18mm the concrete as well then flexy everything at least you'd get the prep done in 1 sitting.... Cheapest option is to leave everything down and prime and flex the lot . Bigger boys have done worst in the past ...

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  3. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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    Yeah need to bring it up. If it wasnt for the fact that the ceramics cracking due to poor prep underneath id prime and screed whole area but the ceramics need to come up and the floor strengthening. Im swaying more to boarding the whole lot and a nice coat of screed but dont really like using boards on concrete. One firm I used to sub to did it everytime they came up against a similar prep.
     
  4. lvtfooringbristol.co.uk

    lvtfooringbristol.co.uk Active Member

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    F3 the concrete and the ply . For minimal fixings using 18 nice job

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  5. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    Ply will work. I would use a real wood adhesive like Rewmar or bona. Would have to be dry and will need some fixings in so better make sure there’s no pipes! Or flood it with screed and and leave it ages to dry out


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  6. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    How old Is house ?
    Concrete must be very dry if your going to ply it under 65%RH and have a machanical DPM under the slab
    I would do a double layer of 9mm staggered and glued together rather than 18mm
    It keeps level right at the ply seams 18mm seams can be a nightmare if the floors not super flat End up spending more time sanding and feathering
     
  7. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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    The house is about 90 yr old spacey. The extension was built about 8yrs ago (concrete section). He's taking a section out so I can go back and do the damp tests, I'll leave a couple hygrometers there for few days aswell.

    Liking the idea of doubling up the 9mm, makes perfect sense in what you saying :cool:

    So you reckon renovation the whole lot?
    NA has gone up in price as that is my usual go to but used that renovation 3 times now recently and liking it alot. Plenty of fibres :)
     
  8. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Do you mean ply the lot and then flex over it ?
     
  9. lvtfooringbristol.co.uk

    lvtfooringbristol.co.uk Active Member

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    Yes this way will be far superior . May be more time consuming/expensive if going to flexy it anyway

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  10. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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  11. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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    The concrete section is approx 12 inch deep slab they say due to the extension level needed bringing up to match the old kitchen timber section. They have electric mat ufh in the kitchen timber section but don't use it and havnt for yrs, god know why but they are not bothered about keeping it o_O

    Defo will be using some wood adhesive though.
     
  12. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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    Yep!
     
  13. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I only flex over if it’s Amtico or the subfloor is bad
    You have to consider cost as well as doing a good job
    Seams sanded and feathered is normally fine
     
  14. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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  15. lvtfooringbristol.co.uk

    lvtfooringbristol.co.uk Active Member

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    Common sense

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  16. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    Gonna take twice as long to fit 2 layers of 9mm ply. Plus you won’t have the weight to keep the subfloor down. No way the subfloor has to be below 65%. Below 75% is already pretty dry! Only solid oak needs to be below 65%.


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  17. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    You could use carpet or vinyl adhesive to stick down wood? You could use pva if you had enough of it! If I’m sticking down wood I’ve always found wood adhesive the best option


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  18. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I always expect @merit to disagree with everything I write
    Well done for keeping it up :rolleyes:
     
  19. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    Not everything


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  20. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking that once its all up then ill look at the options regarding 18mm or 2 x 9mm. Hopely it will be flat enough to take a single layer of 18mm.

    Main reason for flex over the top is to bring that final level up mainly for the units and dont want to be laying 22mm ply but I guess would work out cheaper and just as good.

    They said they dont want to scrimp and would pay for what is required but I was thinking keeping the cost down as much as poss, ive got to price the rip out aswell so there will be a skip involved but will give them the option for them to get rid of the ceramics etc.

    I have 2 tubs of F3 in the cave but will need to check how old they are....could be pushing 2 yrs old :rolleyes:
     

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