I’ve a job to price for, an L shaped room, part of the L used to be a garage, it’s a 1950s house. At some point the garage has been knocked through to join the front sitting room. The garage floor slopes towards the front of the house, it’s approx 3” from level. The area has been used as a room, albeit carpeted, for the past 20 years. There haven’t been any signs of damp over this period and I’ve check the concrete subfloor with my Tramex Moisture Meter and the floor appears dry. A curved bay window has been added to the side of the room, and a dpc is visible in this area. There is obviously a join in the screed where the bay meets the garage floor, and another two joints where the garage wall was taken out to join the fron sitting room. The intention is to fit a parquet floor through out. Knowing the history of the room, it was a garage, I’d like to install a dpm, better safe than sorry. I need to lift the low end of the room by 30mm ish, just so it flows into the other area nicely, my customer is happy to live with the rest of the fall in the floor, I can’t lift it any more or it will interfere with the adjacent part of the room. My first thoughts are to - Use NA, to approx 25mm at the low end feathering up to 3mm over the whole floor (I’ll bulk the NA with aggregate). Then a coat of Ardex One Coat DPM, followed by 3mm of NA over the top. Then, 9mm ply bonded with a two part epoxy parquet adhesive, then 10mm PAR parquet blocks, sanded & finished in situ etc, I normally advise this method because it creates a one piece engineered floor which is incredibly stable and strong, it also spans the joints in the concrete subfloor and acts as an intermediate layer. However, all this creates an increase in the cost to the customer, I’m not the only person pricing for this work, a lot of my work comes via recommendation, which is a foot in the door before you start, however this hasn’t. what would everyone else do, bond blocks straight to the concrete, it needs a min amount of levelling so the areas join together, but it doesn’t necessarily need a DPM, it appears dry (I’m doing it because I doubt it’s got one) I just don’t to want to appear expensive.
I’d go with Uzin gold as higher compression strength then Na. Do levels, epoxy dpm, screed at 4mm and lay parquet onto that. Wouldnt bother with the plywood.
As Daz said, just use cheaper materials if you want to keep cost down, just dont skrimp on the prep use a proper dpm that goes high, like you said might read try but I'd bet a round that the garage side 'atleast' definitely has no mechanical dpm
Stick to the method your happy with. Sounds like a good one and you defo won’t have any issues. People don’t always opt for the cheapest quote Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
