Having kitchen/dining room knocked through and both extended. I want one vinyl floor throughout (approx 40m2). Dining room and kitchen have wood floorboards so I am planning to lay 1/4 inch ply on top. Where this meets the new extension the screeders say they can screed to meet the height of the top of the ply. So far so good, I should then be able to have a level. continous run through. However, I think I need underlay on the screed (moisture barrier/warmth?) so will have to run it across all, which is okay except I am planning on glueing the floor. Maybe I don't need underlay on screed? Why am I glueing the floor? Because I plan to run wall to wall and then sit new kitchen units on top. My understanding is that vinyl needs an expansion gap unless it is glued and sitting units on top would b@gger up expansion. I read that most fitters say not to run under kitchen units but I think it will look much, much neater than if I have to trim vinyl around the units etc. Is running under a complete no-no? Any advice most welcome!
Yes DIY as on a tight budget (missus has blown it all on the kitchen!). Looking at either click step type vinyl or 2 metre sheets.
I wouldn't stick units on top and if the floor has to go in after all the units are in I'd be going for stick down. Have you any experience with these sort of vinyls?
Can't screed up to wood then lay stuck vinly over The seam will show and wear through the vinly eventually
2m sheet vinyl has to be welded at the seams or any join will open up Better going for a click system if you want to attempt it your self but then you defiantly can fit the kitchen on top or it will buckle
Thanks all. Looks like I will have to bite the bullet and lay click vinyl up to the units. (I have laid several click laminate rooms over the years). My biggest concern is cutting around the intricate bits of the kitchen units - like these: I understand that I can run under the plinth and trim that down, but what do I do here? Cut up to and around (Dremel?) and then seal with silicon? Secondly, do I need an underlay on screed or can I go straight down? (Obviously I have to wait for the screed to fully dry - probably quite a long time from what I have read).
Around the units I'd silicon the edge but I'd find the nearest colour match to the flooring and flat bead it (fugi kit 90 degree profile)
That's right, a nice subtle clear bead because your floor will flow past the plinths anyway, again I'd use the flat profile. Just get yourself a fugi kit and take your time with the cuts around the unit.
I thought sealing the plinth line would create a pain for future removal, but it would look weird if I only siliconed the end panels and around where they come back in to meet the plinth (the "sticky-outy bits"): Sealing the plinth will obviously help with water proofing, and save me having to profile the plinth. Great advice, thanks bud.
Take the flooring under the plinth an inch or so then sit plinth on top. The silicon can be cut/sliced carefully if you need to remove it in the future. Then clean it off and reapply the silicon when putting plinths back. I have one to do in a couple weeks same as your install, I'll be doing exactly what you'll be doing. Customer has allowed me to undercut the 'sticky-out' bits with my multi tool providing its neat and tidy if I want to but I'll access it before fitting.
I use quicksteps 2mm underlay also. The one with the moisture barrier (damp proof) backing because it's not that expensive for dpm one. See what the underlay is like that's recommended with your click.
Thanks guys, great advice. Now, I thought buying ply to go on top of the floorboards would be simple.... The floorboards are sound and pretty level. I am thinking 9mm ply will do the job? Confused by the different types of ply though: Hardwood Softwood Marine WBP Birch Structural Non-Structural Advice on which to use would be most welcome!
Thanks guys. I'll have to split the difference and go for 4.5mm . Actually there will be two walls knocked through and the flooring will be continous through three rooms. So the chances are I will have slightly different levels to sort out. That might dictate the height of the ply.
