How do you self level 150m2 in different batches?

Discussion in 'Subfloor Preparation' started by Dave Francis, Sep 9, 2020.

  1. Dave Francis

    Dave Francis Member

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    First time poster (but a long time lurker).
    I am a diy-er about to tackle floor prep for the whole of my downstairs. It has a Gyvlon Thermio + anhydrite screed over UFH throughout the downstairs. The screed was poured at the end of January and the heating was commissioned soon after and has been in use regularly up until the Summer.
    I had laitance to take off so I hired a grinder and used 16 grit oxide to remove the top off-white, friable layer (though it was pretty tough going). But to belt and brace, I went at the whole floor with a diamond cup and angle grinder afterwards (my poor back). Anyway, the surface is open and I have had the ufh on for the last two weeks with good ventilation during the daytime to dry it off.
    I have bought Uzin PE 360 to prime the floors when it is dry (1:1 followed by neat). I will probably buy nc110 or anhylevel for the slc - advice on either of thes options is appreciated.
    My questions, for the time being, is....
    .... the house has furniture in it which can be contained in the lounge (37m2) when embarking on the self levelling work. How do you guys break up a whole downstairs when self levelling? We will be living in the house so I hope to get the traffic areas poured on the same day so that they have a chance to harden within the day to enable us to use the house still. Can I "dam" sections with either caulk or some other physical barrier? The floors are already quite flat so I am only going to level to 2-3 mm depth. What happens at the junction between set and flowing slc when I resume?
    Or is it better to bite the bullet and move the furniture out and do the whole downstairs i one hit?

    I will follow this up with wet laying LVT in HT adhesive.

    The above sounds like I know what I am doing - but it is mostly picked up from your expertise here on the forum, so thank you. Removing the old floor and reinstalling a new slab / UFH etc has killed my budget so I have to do everything myself unfortunately. I will live with the consequences (and the wife's scorn !!).
    Thanks everyone.
     
  2. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    If your only levelling 2/3mm with a gypsum levelling compound I would just break it in a suitable doorway then work into that. It’s very easy to run down and repair with feather finish if you tie it in poor


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  3. Dave Francis

    Dave Francis Member

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    That's comforting to know - thanks. It would make the job much more manageable if I can break it down into sections. Is using a dam a good idea for a defined edge or can I just butt up or blend in the adjacent sections as I get around to doing them (Is that what you meant)? I presume I could sand / grind any lips that occur as well?
    I was also planning to prime on top of the SLC based on something I read here. Is that standard practice - I will have enough to do that in any case? Thank you again.
     
  4. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Your brave ;)
     
  5. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    Priming on top will help with the adhesive having more open time.
     
  6. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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    Make sure yiu have a spikey roller to hand and roll the death out of it :D
     
  7. Floorever

    Floorever Well-Known Member

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    - Put 3mm down to get a better flow/finish.
    - Have 1-2 people labour for you to mix and roll
    - Use a pin leveller if you can as you will get a much better finish as (no offence) you won’t have the experience to get consistency with a trowel
    - If there’s skirtings on.... mask them up

    Finally, do it all in one hit if you can
    Good luck!
     
  8. Floorever

    Floorever Well-Known Member

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    Oh... and use KE66
     
  9. Distinctive Adam

    Distinctive Adam Well-Known Member

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    110 will do the work for you, prob one of best options to use if your DIY’er, try and keep to one manufacture and not mix systems etc , good luck
     
  10. Dave Francis

    Dave Francis Member

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    You don't know how thankful I am for your input everyone. Much appreciated. I am press-ganging my oldest to do the mixing whilst I pour and level will see if I can recruit a nephew / daughter to do the rolling as well (thanks Floorever). I was planning to buy the spiked roller and levelling gauge / pin trowel as well.
    Spacey - my bravery comes from much of what I have read from your posts here (dry-fit first and then wet lay, which primer/slc etc, for example).
     
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  11. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Thats nice to hear As with most things its easier said than done so I hope I don't get the blame for any problems :p
     
  12. Dave Francis

    Dave Francis Member

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    Best price for NC 110 online is £28 Inc vat per 25kg bag. Does that sound about right. I think I'll need about 35 bags for 150m2 at 3mm. Finding it anywhere down here in deepest Cornwall is not easy but I hope I can get it delivered from the above supplier.
     
  13. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    Have a look at murexin CA20. Half the price and a gypsum.
     
  14. Dave Francis

    Dave Francis Member

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    Thanks for that suggestion. I can only find one supplier for ca20 online and it works out at £25 per bag (once vat and £40 delivery added). Would love to know where I can source it for less. Also, is it compatible with Uzin 360Pe New? Can I mix systems and even use ke66 on top, or should I try to keep it "in house" where possible? Thanks.
     
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  15. Dave Francis

    Dave Francis Member

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    Distinctive Adam had previously posted elsewhere, back in July....
    "Murexin ca20 is on offer at £15 per bag, same specs as 110 c30, f7 6sq per bag."
     
  16. LVTFitter37

    LVTFitter37 Active Member

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    Ardex cl £12 bag and bottle flood primer 3/1 make sure your below 75rh and your get loads of working time and in my opinion best results for the money
     
  17. Dave Francis

    Dave Francis Member

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    Thanks LVTFitter37, I have Uzin 360 as my primer already. Ok to mix and match systems e.g. different primers, slc's and adhesives? Ardex CL is so much more affordable then nc110 /Anhylevel.
     
  18. LVTFitter37

    LVTFitter37 Active Member

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    Use the ardex p51 cheap as chips and the cl for the money it’s amazing. I had ardex come and do a site spec and they swear by this system.
     
  19. Distinctive Adam

    Distinctive Adam Well-Known Member

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    Only use one manufacture - Murexin ca20 has come off offer now but still cheaper than Uzin 110, email me [email protected] and we will arrange all materials for you, primer, screed and adhesive. Kind regards
     
  20. Dave Francis

    Dave Francis Member

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    Thanks Adam - I have just emailed you.
     

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