Floor tolerances for LVT - In a pickle

Discussion in 'Subfloor Preparation' started by AntLiv, Apr 17, 2021.

  1. AntLiv

    AntLiv New Member

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    We've in the process of having LVT installed and are at the final leveling stage and I'm nervous that the final floor level is not going to be acceptable and could affect the LVT. I really need some advice so I can ensure I work with the fitters to ensure the preperation is as good as can be before proceeding to laying the floor.

    Bit of background:
    Hallway, Half Kitchen, Dining room and Living room all had asphalt down which had cracked in many places. That was removed so that we can start from the base subfloor.
    We have a side extension which joined the kitchen aswell as a conservatory going off the dining room. This was a decent subfloor with DPM. The old floor taken up therefore needed a deep fill to bring it up to level. Steps taken:

    1. Thin layer of latex screen poured on all old flooring.
    2. DPM laid which was a 2 part epoxy
    3. Deep fill which was about 25mm and all poured via large buckets. This seemed to sit flat but was about 2-3mm lower than the new kitchen extension floor. Material used was Stopgap 600 Base
    4. The following day they latexed the whole downstairs (80m2) using Stopgap 1200. I beleive it was one person using a trowel and possibly a spiked roller.

    They we're aware that a section in the kitchen needed an extra fill before the floor can fitted. To the eye it looks ok however when walking around you can feel the unevenness. I used a 2m straight edge and can fit a pound coin under it in so many places, currently no new skirting board would sit flat. They've marked some areas and have grinded them back and will fill in some but still there will be lots of other areas that have more than the 3mm tolerance I've read online as a guideline.

    I'm really nervous about them proceeding to lay the floor and it not being suitable which is why I'm trying to understand what is the acceptable level so that the floor can be laid for 20 years with no problems.

    They did suggest that the uneveness was because of the orginal ground however after the deep fill it felt flat and surely with it being that thick it would have found a decent level.

    I'm hoping that someone on here would be able to offer me some advice on whether you believe the flooring would be ok or what you think could be the next measures to ensure the subfloor is the best it can be.

    thanks in advance
     
  2. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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    Let's have a look at some pics....
     
  3. AntLiv

    AntLiv New Member

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    Trying to bud they are too large and when posted as a link I dont have permission yet as havent posted 10+ times :/
     
  4. AntLiv

    AntLiv New Member

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    I've reduced the file size, hopefully you can view them. I havent got any photos of the final latex layer but have shown a photo of the straight edge and the coin to represent 3mm. The larger gaps they are currently addressing but its the 3-7mm gaps I'm worried about which you can find many of
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Is the second pic the supposed finished coat if so drag them off if that there screeding I wouldn’t let then near lvt no spiked roller used there it can be hard to get levels perfect and takes work but the prep is everything
     
  6. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Also looks like the screeds be juiced up a bit
     
  7. Distinctive Adam

    Distinctive Adam Well-Known Member

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    I assume there’s a final layer to still be done ?
     
  8. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    Can’t fit LvT on that. It’s going to look like warped plastic. Also gone too deep over the dpm unless it’s been correctly primed.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  9. Rugmunching

    Rugmunching Well-Known Member

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    What Dpm was used? Ardex 1c?
    25mm of 600 on top??
    Pretty sure you are not supposed to go above 6mm on the dpm
     
  10. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    Was thinking that about the Dpm. You shouldn’t go over that in one pour over 6mm.
    Would of been better with new asphalt really then 1200 pro
    Getting the floor level is possible but takes a lot of time and screeding compounds
     
  11. tarkett85

    tarkett85 Well-Known Member

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    I’d have gone the asphalt route it would’ve been cheaper too.


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  12. AntLiv

    AntLiv New Member

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    They used f ball stopgap f77 as the dpm which was followed by 20mm average depth of the 600. I've looked over the packaging instructions thats here and can't see anything about restrictions of the above layer depth. Is this a concern for me too?
     
  13. Yiddo1982

    Yiddo1982 Well-Known Member

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    If your having to work with the floor layers to get a good job done what sort of floorlayers have you hired

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  14. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    It’s weird how on the tech sheets it doesn’t say that but after doing the ardex , uzin , fball and Bostik training courses I’ve always been told no more then 6mm over a Dpm & Asphalt
     
  15. Jason Sheehan

    Jason Sheehan Well-Known Member

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    Personally I always ask for the skirtings to be on and set to the level required and followed round. I then use this as the level and screed to which means no gaps after latex.
     

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