Hi guys just after some advice I own a carpet and flooring store and have done for some years We have glued down LVT to self levelled concrete subfloor a few times with no issue My client has asked me to do LVT in his commercial premises. Its 170sqm on the first floor.. His subfloor is is chip board, my plan was to overboard the current chip board with 5.5mm flooring grade ply, feather finish the joints, prime the plywood and glue the lvt directly to that. Is there any issue doing this or must it definitely only be glued down to a self levelled surface? Only asking as I've had conflicting responses. If we were to self level 170sqm if would cost a few grand extra, so it's something we'd rather avoid. Thanks for taking the time to read.
Depends how flat the floor is and what LVT your using. Also the amount of natural light Has your client specified the floor needs to be levelled? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It might seem level but I'd be surprised over that are that it'll be flat enough to not show the ripples through an LVT material. Like merit has said if your guy is expecting a nice flat floor then you should make him aware that if you go just the ply with feathered joints route then chances are there will be some ugly bumps especially with there being alot of light coming through. You can level the area to bring it up where it's lower but that could then show a nice flat floor compared to the other 80% that could be rippled. It's a big area and yes it can work out expensive if you go with the screeding. I'd go 9mm ply with feather if it had to be just boarding
Natural sunlight and a thin lvt don’t go well together unless the subfloor is like a mirror. Dark colours show worse. Van Gogh or quickstep pulse,balance hide a lot more but you will need to make the customer aware of the levels. We’re expected to get a subfloor flat to 2/3mm over a 2m radius. Not many chipboard floors that are that flat. Unless they have been done well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You could possibly give a light sand over with a buffer first, to get rid of any crap on the chipboard and smooth off any peaking joints
You should be ok with SP101 or FG1 plywood. Feather , sand down , feather joints again , sand down. Prime, glue & Fit using a wet set adhesive
We’re doing just that on a church floor this week. But van Gogh going down that I trust and it’s a brand nee chipboard floor, levelled, glued and screwed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You need to get a long level/straight edge over the floor surface to check the surface regulatory Ideally you want SR1 but also what is going what is going be in the area ie how much of the floor will be covered with gear, Will natural light be deflected, how level do they need it to use as intended and will it conform with thre budget Litsbof variables to consider
