I'm explaining this wrong I think. On the image, you see where his right hand is? That's the hammer mechanism Give me a few minutes and I'll adjust the image to make it clearer
Arrow one points to the top of the "hammer", arrow 2 is where the hammer "plunges" to and forces the pins into the concrete (or wood)
No not explaning wrong I have maybe 5 meters very simular to this that has the built in slide hammer. However we only use them on wood. I have never used this type of meter to read concrete so have never tried to hammer in the pins. Mainly because i have seen alot of false readings form pin tests preformed on concrete and also the fact its not a British Standard test so if something did fail you wont have a leg to stand on in court etc. However there are plenty of meters that you cant use to British Standards that i know do read spot on! but what im trying to get at is what happens if you have a solid floor that wont allow you to knock in the pins, do you rely on surface readings then? Or maybe down kent you have soft concrete floors! Wish some of the floors around near us was softer. . Im also intrested at how deep you hammer them in. Do you use insulated pins when hammering them in?
Not sure what you mean. You use special hardened pins for concrete and other ones for wood materials. Pins go in deep enough (conform European standards, these differ on various points with BS). Solid floors? You mean when a wooden floor is already on a concrete floor? You have to be able to expose the concrete to hammer the pins in. As for quality of concrete floors in Kent - still have to see one that is up to "our standards"! Rubbish, soft, unlevel, crumbly is all we find here and guessing it's the same in the rest of the UK? Where's the BS when you need it? ;-) (Lousy, bad quality concrete floors is the main reason we are very reluctant to fully bond wooden floors and always try to persuade the clients to opt for wood-engineered floors)
No i mean solid concrete. Im going to presume you havent come accross concrete floors as hard as around near me. When i say hard i mean that its impossible to drive a concrete nail into them. I also have a compressed air nailer that will drive a 30mm pin/nail straight into a paving slab no issues but it cant fire into some concrete floors. Mainly powerfloated or i think its c20 modified concrete or something like that. We had a contract 2 years ago that the floors was that hard we couldn't even drill into them without going through a drill bit for each hole! (and no we wasnt using cheap bits) Im sure the day you come accross one of these floors you will know exactly what im talking about. :thumbs
interesting stuff. I use the tramex CX expert kit which will measure RH % and Moisture content of wood and concrete. All use different attachements but it has let me down yet.. Touch er... wood... One thing i dont get is why peopel are still using unfinished wood. A factory finished UV lacquer eg treffer is noramlly cheaper and better than finishing wood flooring even with a top end lacquer like osmo.
Why unfinished wood? Depends on the floor type the client selects: design parquet is unfinished so you can sand off both the tape that keeps the pattern together and any unevenness before applying any finish. Although most factory finishes are very good (oil or lacquer), some clients have special wishes and their preferred colour cannot be found/produced (or at great expense) in a factory.
true enough..The point i was dancing around i guess was I still come across people who think it is more cost effective to buy un-finished, but it rarely is. but very true , for special finishes , or indeed a floor without bevel.
Fully agree with you on cost-effectiveness on the standard finishes (and boy, are the numbers of standard finishes increasing! We now even have gold and silver tones on boards).
