got a question for ya, when measuring stairs how much do you allow on the length. is it an inch per step. i hope this question makes sense
i like to allow a little more. But if its a patterned carpet and your doing the stairs in more than one piece then you have to allow for the pattern match on top.
is that when you fold the carpet on the bottom step in on its self so that when the carpet on the nose of the steps wears out you can move the whole run up. :?:
yes mate. Traditionally you left some spare carpet with your customer but this used to always get used up as a door mat. So we have a way that you store the stair change under the carpet basically. Not really practical any more tho down to the poor quality of carpets now been sold in the u.k. But the very few descent quality carpets still been sold this option is still available.
Fancy talking us through how you have seen it done before mate. Not trying to quizz you here mate as i can guaranty you 99% of people on here wont do it the same way. But we always like to hear different ways so we can pick the best method between us.
Fancy talking us through how you have seen it done before mate. Not trying to quizz you here mate as i can guaranty you 99% of people on here wont do it the same way. But we always like to hear different ways so we can pick the best method between us.[/quote] Sorry for the late reply I've had a bad case of man flu for the past few days. To be honest I didn't reakon much to the way I saw it done, it was a bit on the baggy side. The fitter who did it just folded the carpet back on its self and pinned it.
the way i've always done it is with a small plywood batten pinned through the tucked piece then pulled tight over to the tread (working from bottom step up).
people over here used to call that turning stairs, goe's back to the days of 3/4 carpet. another method employed at the time (pre gripper) was to run the carpet about 1-1.5 feet onto the hall or landing (or both) and cut the underlay around that bit i've moved a few sets or stairs where possable, they have always been axminsters and fitted 20years plus, but the original fitter hasn't always allowed a full tread, and yes you get an unworn peice on the nose of the tread but the worn nose is just transfered to further back on the tread so the stairs still look worn. cuts around newell posts are also problematic unless your lucky and the old fitter left a tuck under. i would always discuss this with the client first but find its normally only a stopgap solution. the stairs would need to be moved at least twice every year since new to keep an even apperance, even then theres nothing you can do about the drop over on the landing(s) or winders.
That shunting up and down of the stair carpet is really best achieved in the use of a stair runner, as that method was more widely used back in my grand fathers day, I remember watching him on 2 occasions fitting stair runners from the ground up round winders without cutting in one piece all the way up, it was like origami with carpet. I have to ask Matt do you know how to do this, only its summit I would like to do as I hate having to cut a runner on winders and feel that the point of a runner is it should be able to be moved. I only remember that I did not put underlay over the top over the landing then none on the winders and none on the bottom step. It was summit my grand father never passed onto me or my father only a few drawings and rough sketches and its hard to dertermine from those how he did it.
A fitter I work with talks about doing runners that way, think he called it pocket and pin but I didnt really understand it
Ive only done turn stairs 2 times like that in my time, and both instances were over 15yrs ago. Was a long laborious pita tbh The 'normal' way is easier, better looking and far less time consuming. Thank god lol :mrgreen:
