Noob question about recolouring hardwood floor

Discussion in 'Wood' started by mark_a_thorpe, Mar 25, 2013.

  1. mark_a_thorpe

    mark_a_thorpe Member

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    Well the guy that has owned the house for 3 years says he hasn't done anything other than mop it, if that helps?
     
  2. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    I think most of the manufacturers won't guarantee any products unless you sand that finish off first, then start over. Stain it with the colour you want then lacquer/oil over that
     
  3. mark_a_thorpe

    mark_a_thorpe Member

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    That does make sense. So with this sort of floor, am I looking at being able to use a hand sander? Conscious that a big heavy floor sander may be overkill?
     
  4. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    Rather you than me, most hand sanders won't be powerfull enough to remove the finish.
     
  5. mark_a_thorpe

    mark_a_thorpe Member

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    Wow really? I'm no expert (obviously haha!) but it doesn't feel like there's really much to the finish. I'm comparing to the more obviously glossy varnished stairs mind you - they're like toffee apples (but not red...)!
     
  6. Planet Parquet Ltd

    Planet Parquet Ltd New Member

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    I think you'll probably have to sand the whole thing off. There's one chance of a bodge/value DIY, in that a spirit based stain can eat into lacquer and colour it and because you want to go dark you've got leeway . I used morrells walnut and black layered with bona mega to get a smoked oak repair at a wicks oak price. The stain alone can't seem to get the body if it's that rich smoked oak look you're going for. If it was my place I'd try a bit in the corner or cupboard to see how the stain takes to the seal, the floor should be pretty uniform in wear, no worn out patches. I was extending an existing smoked oak floor so I had to tape around the individual boards and then play with the mix to get the variation. It was easy that way though because you've got to be quick, the stain really grabs. If it doesn't grab the factory finished surface you could key it all and apply primer then lacquer and it will stick to that. Then layer the stain and seal for colour then more seal for protection. It's maverick and experimental all the way but the floor I did is fine 3 years later.

    If you're sanding it, make sure you go down the grades and get all the scratch marks out. Go round the borders with a white spirit rag to show up every little mark as they will hit you in the face when the stain goes on. Get them out then finish with a random orbital all over so it's uniform then stain it.
     

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