Been to look at a job which is 5 different levels. Got to get it flat to receive underfloor heating panels then that will have plywood on top. Then Karndean. 1 new concrete screed on new extension One extension which had ceramics on ( 10 years old ) One extension which had wood block with a dpm Old floor wood block with no dpm New quarry tiles in old kitchen, no dpm So got to try get all to one height, where the ladder is that's the highest point. 1 inch difference from right to left. Hard to price it up. Any ideas how to price it? Thinking of using NA or stopgap 1200 with granno to get level. Then dpm
yea thats a hard one, are the heating panels stuck to the floor? and is the ply t&G and loose laid? are the blocks all up, or being taken up? if the panels are not stuck, then i would pin ply to the blocks at what ever thickness you need, prime 131 and build up all thick levels with 1200 with grano chipping or if you want cheaper solution use green bag and liquid, then prime and latex over the top with either product again to get level. don't bother using liquid DPM but lay 1000 gauge plastic followed by the heating panels and ply if they are looselaid. pricing is always difficult, but a standard latex would be around for this sort of job £5/6.00m2 for 3mm so if your putting 30mm over say half the area,plus the 3mm on the other half its an average of say 17mm, when doing thick coats is around £1 per mm once you get past the 3mm so the room looks like 55m2 so i would say £20.50m2 x 55= £1127.50, grono chippings will help you bulk it out and improve your profit two days work £300, one bag does 5mm at 2/3mm so at one bag will do 1m2 at 15mm so i would say 50 bags and 5 to 7 bags chippings materials £700 ish so maybe £1400? hope it gives you and idea
Don't get yourself caught short is my advice. On a tricky job to price, I always go over the top. If you do the rough working out of what it should cost then stick more on for safety. Worst case is the customer has you over or you don't make money. If you get it and it goes as planned then you get a result and make some extra but More than likely you will get the job done and be glad you stuck more on as things didnt quite go as planned. I've priced things and thought I've put too much on then hit a snag and been glad I had or I'd have lost money. You cannot get everything right.
Hi daz I've just done a major build up job similar to this, I do them quite often coz builders who I work for usually leave there screed way to low. If you are using chippings you need nearly a full bag of chipping to a unit of latex. And I would recommend using just bog standard trade screed. Make sure u prime well. No point in using NA or 1200 when using chippings , your trade screed will be suffice . Then just Dpm over the lot.
has the customer purchased the heating mats and the chipboard yet? If not i would defo be advicing the customer to dig that floor up and install new concrete with heating pipes in the concrete. (providing the boiler is capable of heating it without needing a new one which it should do if they used to have radiators) 1- the subfloor is asking for trouble, defo when you have a fair few old walls showing through ! 2- the actuall cost i would guess wont be much more than you trying to put it right. The water underfloor heating will probo pay for itself in one year with the energy saving over electric. 3- they will have a solid floor and not a chipboard floating floor with limited life span and we all know are crap. 4- the house looks like it could have a new concrete floor put in at moment without issues due to it being a building site and not a nicely decorated lounge etc. Thats what i would personally advice, if they dont go with that i would give someone elses number to do the floor LOL.
The heating system is set in theses panels which are glued down to my subfloor. Got to find out can they be glued to the dpm. Then the 9mm sp101 ply will be screwed onto the panels.
Yes mate heating system is on site. The old wall parts are coming out and filled with dpm sheet an concrete.
I have this job already for the LVT. But no prep. The builder wants me to do the prep now. My mate graham is going to call in an look tomorrow Might take the adhesive up then use a cheaper moisture tolerance screed with granno to get the levels right. NA or 1200 will cost too much.
Which screed did you use Ste. Sounds like the best idea on cost that. When I use granno I do half bag to a full mix. That's what I was shown. Does it need more then that mate?
I was always told that to ! I'd go with tremco 303 moisture tolerant on price but not sure if it's OK with UFH ? When I have level issues (which is quite often) I build it up in stages until you get to where your ready for the final coat ! Pretty simple to cost when you brake it down in layer's but pricey none the less ! You've just got to price for what you got to do !
