Going off in a slight tangent I had my competency challenged by a new senior manager for a major housebuilder a few months ago. In the bathrooms I couldn't scribe Spacia White Oak into bumpy white wall tiles without there being a hairline showing. He insisted it could be done by a 'good fitter' and took one of the houses off me and had it fitted by some team from another part of the country he knew to prove his point. They couldn't even get it as close as me and the bathrooms all ended up with a bead of silicon. It was a couple of months before I agreed to do any more work for them ( I took the hump! ) but the aforementioned manager did get egg on his face especially as he was told it was preferable to silicon in bathrooms anyway.
Hi Most problems have been solved, but there are still a few areas that still need stuck down even though I did point them out to him, he got some sort of heat type blower out to stick it back down but some are still loose
As discussed on first page on this topic about architraves being undercut. I fitted karndean van gogh Macrocapra in a lounge today coming off some which had already been fitted in the hallway. First pic flooring has been cut around arcs second pic undercut and fitted underneath. You be tge judge on which looks better.
The first looks like its been hooked as the straight bits are nothing but straight! So its more judging whats best from hooking in or undercutting? Not judging marked out to undercutting? I mark out not hook. Im not saying marking out is better or quicker then undercutting but I believe a high standard finish can be achieved by marking out the cut. Maybe if I had the spare cash to buy something to cut out architraves I would undercut..... What do you guys use to cut out the architraves?
I have a roberts door jamb cutter (bought second hand of eBay) and fein multimaster. Tend to use roberts more as blades expensive for fein expensive and they wear out quickly especially on mdf arcs.
Yeah I would agree with that. Even the customer said my overall fitting was alot better than the hall/dining room/ds toilet which they'd had fitted previously. His words not mine.
No. You can set the height on them. Pic is of arc cut with Roberts jamb cutter for 6mm ply and van gogh plank.
Hi Had another fitter from the company come round to sort remaining issues mainly with tiles not sticking in corners etc and around architraves As for the mastic I was told that some customers ask for this and it's done for energy efficiency and to stop water ingress when cleaning
I know in new houses they mastic under/along the skirting boards for energy efficiency but not sure if yours is a new house. As for water ingress when cleaning only a damp mop should be used not drench the floor. Basically think the fitter is talking out his backside. Purely my own view. As I've said before I'll only mastic in bathrooms and its usually a very small bead of clear silicone. Shouldn't need to be used anywhere else. I'm sure I'll stir a hornet's nest by my comments but if fitted properly it shouldn't not be needed.
Thanks Dave the mastic is going to stay can't be bothered with the hassle and unless you go on your hands and knees you don't really notice it The only other query I have is if there is movement and by that I mean squeaks , creaks (which I can live with) in the ply or subfloor when walked on will that cause any long term problems with the planks loosening, the fitter said it will be fine
It should be fine if you've already got him to put screws in. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Could be just your floorboards underneath just moving slighty causing the noise.Have a good one.
Ive got to agree mate. If you take pride in your work and all your cuts are spot on, I cant think of anything worse than covering it all up with mastic. Personally I think it looks horrible, if has to be a small bead. If its big, you are covering something up.
