Hygrometer reading

Discussion in 'Subfloor Preparation' started by Samson, Feb 28, 2014.

  1. Samson

    Samson Well-Known Member

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    Just got myself a Hygrometer.
    When you do a test; we are told to do it over 72 hours. If after say 12 hours, the reading exceeds 75% relative humidity which indicates that a damp proof membrane needs to be applied, is there any need to leave it and continue to the 72 hours, and if so why?
     
  2. Matt

    Matt Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    leave it for a MINIMUM of 72hours. Because it has gone up will normally mean a Surface DPM is required, also you need to know its final reading to know what dpm system and how many coats you might need. However the reason you leave it for 72 hrs is so it can equalize. There is plenty of times the hygrometer can read high in first few hours and drop down again. Also vice versa, a hygrometer can read low for first 48 hours etc before it starts to rise.
     
  3. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Where did you end up buying it from what make & did you manage to get the proper seal tape ?
     
  4. coolevilangel

    coolevilangel Well-Known Member

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    butyl tape spacey
     
  5. pf flooring

    pf flooring Well-Known Member

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    if you run out of the butyl tape and are in a fix for some, kids plastacene works too so ive been told but not blutac.
     
  6. UVcure

    UVcure Well-Known Member

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    Matt what do you do with a modified screed?
    Like say a 75 mm k screed
    On the tin it states dries in 7 days!
    if you put a hydrometer on it,it will still show it's wet,
    It's a bit like if you put down stopgap 600 thick and test that the next day it will it's damp but fballs say you can lay on it?
    Only test to make sure is a calcium carbide test, but they are expensive and a pain,
    Fballs say it's the screed company responsibly to confirm it's ok, but the site want me to agree that is ok? As normal they don't want to pay for DPM if it dosen't need it,
    Any ideas
     
  7. Trimmer

    Trimmer Well-Known Member

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    I think you have to do a different test, carbide bomb one.
     
  8. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    Costs about £1500 for the set up tho
     
  9. Samson

    Samson Well-Known Member

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    Hi Spacey, Headlam got it for me. The yellow one with the dial on top. Cost about £100, and came with a small roll of tape.

    Is it possible to screed completely level first, then apply D.P.M. Or will the damp cause the screed to fail?
    Balls say the dried D.P.M. will accept a direct coat of Karndean Skim Coat.
     
  10. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    You can screed first if the concrete is ruff so the dpm will go further & you get a better coating but you need to use a moisture tolorant latex & then apply another coat over the top of the dpm !
     
  11. Samson

    Samson Well-Known Member

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    Can you suggest an Ardex or F Balls suitable moisture tolerant screed?
     
  12. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Ardex NA or Fball 1200
     
  13. Cre8tiveflooring

    Cre8tiveflooring Well-Known Member

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    Have they now said 1200 can be used?
     
  14. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Yes thats what they told me I thought you've done it ?
     
  15. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    I have used it under a dpm a few times. No problems. Did have some crack ontop of asphalt last week though? Weird.
     
  16. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    I've used 1200 under a Dpm
     
  17. Cre8tiveflooring

    Cre8tiveflooring Well-Known Member

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    I have. But wasn't sure what the stand from them was.
     
  18. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    I said this a while ago on twitter as on the bag it didn't say moisture tolerant. But it does say on the tech sheets it can be used under a dpm.
     
  19. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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  20. Hereward Carpets

    Hereward Carpets Member

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    We have recently been working on a job with a high moisture reading. (Protimeter Surveymaster)
    F.Balls recommended removing the bitumen remains, then F77 DPM (new product I think), then Stopgap 300.

    However, Ardex were happy to recommend a layer of Arditex NA over the bitumen (as long as it was 'sound' and not flaking etc), DPM, then another layer of NA.
    Customer went for laminate in the end!

    Mark
     

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