ive got 75msq to latex over ceramics using 1200 would you prime or not even though f-bal say you don't need to
Defo prime. How do they know what type of tile it is or what's been all over it for the last how ever many years Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Firstly are the ceramics on concrete or wood base....... If concrete then check for moisture and check primer is moisture tolerant, also a high glaze ceramic may need some surface work..... And degrease. Personally I use Ardex n/a as doesn't need priming....... Had a discussion with f ball technical on a job and they couldn't give me a confident answer there screed wouldn't fail and Ardex could
The 131 has a high chance of failure if there is moisture present which can rise through grout lines. Primer would be your weak link if there is damp........ Any doubt give the technical advice line a buzz..... But if I was doing it and it was dry I'd n/a then fit flooring if damp I'd n/a then dpm then n/a no primer needed.
Is there actually any difference in na and 1200 on a technical level? both real low strength with additives in the liquid to help bonding as curing thus why they say no primer needed as in theory it should just sit there due to low nmm and I reckon if I phoned ardex and asked what screed to put over magnesite they would say na with no primer would be suitable as thats there go to screed regardless, also is any primer moisture tolerant? as to my knowledge there isn't any that can go under a dpm so non that are moisture tolerant hence in a dpm sandwich its only above the dpm you prime.
on the original question id prime but not with p131, use a decent primer like ardex p51, mapei prim t or go for a primer/grit version, p131 doesnt stick to much very well imho ceramics would be a big no no with that stuff for me as I have little to no faith in it.
Cheers for your replays the c It's on concrete only reason I'm not taking them up is that there's under floor heating through so I'm guessing there shouldn't be any moisture
I always use NA.., and yes, I prime (even though with NA it's not essential) Shouldn't guess about moisture.., I always test.
Well I had 200m2 of thermoplastics uplift.... Floor was 85% rh..... F ball required full removal of bitumen residue before 1200 was applied and then sandwich dpm...... Ardex said n/a could go direct to residue..... So not both products do the same..... Saved a lot of time and money on that job. Secondly primers are changing now and for example ultra and eurocol both have moisture tolerant primers..... Both recommend priming prior to pre dpm skim to prevent pin holing .... Some manufacturers are moving to a universal primer as opposed to one for porus and one for non porus.....
If there is no structural dpc present the underfloor heating will not stop this .... The heating is not always on all year round as RPB says test that's the only definite answer
if the adhesive you went over with NA (or anyone else's compound )came up, would the work be warranted and would ardex pay out on a claim ?
My plan was to prime with neat p131 latex with 1200 then using either f44 or f46 fit karndean Van Gogh
Thats fball going belt and braces and ardex going with the na anything stance, na has been going for so long the fitters tale of it going over everything and never failing has become truth, I'm sure if you sandwiched 1200 with an epoxy it would stay down over bitumen, only difference between fball and ardex is fball don't want to be liable if it comes up whereas ardex are happy to take a runner on it. Personally id of ground it back to bare concrete then dpm and prime then water based on top
