Bull nose

Discussion in 'Wood' started by Redfox, Jun 1, 2021.

  1. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Hi all what’s the correct way to do a border round a 180 bullnose with a two plank border meeting to herringbone I can do it with lvt but never
    Tryed with real wood not that experienced with a router
     
  2. Paul webb

    Paul webb Well-Known Member

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    I would make mdf templates and a flush trim router bit
     
  3. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for reply I take it I have to put in field first
     
  4. Paul webb

    Paul webb Well-Known Member

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    Yes, probably easier to make the templates before you get the floor to that point, paper template up to the bullnose,then put the mdf up to the bullnose and scribe like lvt, make the border template, then use that to make your field template
     
  5. Paul webb

    Paul webb Well-Known Member

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    If you router the field template using the border template as a guide, you will have to make another template, using the field template as a guide, but using a guide bush(copy ring) and appropriate size bit, to put back the material removed by the width of the first bit, or the arc will be wrong, if that makes sense
     
  6. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that’s the bit that I were struggling with
     
  7. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    I’m not experienced with a router do I router right to left
     
  8. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Or change direction foe internal and external
     
  9. Paul webb

    Paul webb Well-Known Member

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    If you are facing the edge you are cutting and pushing the router into the workpiece, then it's left to right, if you are on the other side and pulling the router into the workpiece, then it's right to left
     
  10. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Cheers bud
     
  11. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Would you do the field or the border first in hallway
     
  12. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Got a issue with set up I’ve centralized the herringbone so it has equal cuts each side to the border but it leaves me with small triangles is it possible to move it over and still keep it equal would I measure it at its widest points and then divide that in half and use that as new set up line planks arr 7cmx28cm
     
  13. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Is it even possible
     
  14. Paul webb

    Paul webb Well-Known Member

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    Personally, i usually still do the field first, if you move it across to about 100mm right of the centre line, this should give you an alternative start point
     
  15. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Top man bit out mi depth cheers for advice
     
  16. Paul webb

    Paul webb Well-Known Member

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    The router is quite a useful tool to have ,with just a few bits, you can make stair treads, profiles, Scotia,groove doorways and matwells to use flush fitting trims and can even have uses with lvt.so worth having a bit play with
     
  17. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    I’ll see how I get on with it hopefully It’ll be ok got a plunge saw to cut field carnt wait to get it done it’s drying mi head lol
     
  18. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    Frying
     
  19. Redfox

    Redfox Well-Known Member

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    What’s best way to cut the corners in
     
  20. Paul webb

    Paul webb Well-Known Member

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    Externals, i use a Japanese hand saw, but a tenon saw will also do.internals i use a multitool and sharp chisel. If you have small sections of wall, i can be easier to cut them before you fit them.
    You can also use the router, it gets closer to the wall than the plunge saw, saves a bit of hand cutting
     

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