Hi all Joists > 18mm/25mm ply > 6mm UFH insulation boards > electric UFH > SLC > engineered herringbone planks. Sound right? Also, is there any requirement to stick the herringbone down, or can I just float it? Thanks in advance
Thanks for the reply Daz I’ve had two walls taken down: the one between the kitchen/diner & the one between the diner/lounge. Between that & the fireplace/bifolds/kitchen units - there’s almost no room left to hang a radiator in the kitchen/diner! (I’m sticking one in, but it’s nowhere near enough to heat the whole room).
You would not normally float herringbone. Also Just check the output on the UFH some electric is not man enough for the wood also check your thickness off blocks you don't want to do all this and get the Tog wrong !
Hi Brenchy, What's the reason for not floating herringbone? (I'm talking about regular sized planks, not small blocks/parquet). And if I do need to stick it down, what sort of product should I use to stick it to the SLC? Thanks for the electric UFH advice, I'll be sure to buy a 200W/m2 mat
Does the product say you CAN float it first ? What make is it ? Have you ever floated a herringbone before ? are you sure you don't mean Chervon planks ?
I haven’t got as far as ordering samples yet, but for example, if you google “wood4floors P1200” - it says under description/installation you can float it (sorry, can’t post links yet, as I’m too new apparently). I have floated & portanailed floors before, but I’ve never laid herringbone.
I would suggest you read the fitting instructions with the underfloor heating it requires full bonding. Don't float.
Thanks Brenchy, I’ve been doing a bit more research & discovered foil UFH, which allows you float the flooring straight over the top (no need to encase the UFH in SLC). Anyone had any experience with this? P.S. Hope you don’t think I’m trying to be difficult - just trying to make sure I’ve considered all options
I think Brenchy has given you sound advice, which if you are smart, you'll follow. Without doubt the best way to install this type of flooring is to fully bond it to the ground. Apart from the stability this gives the floor you are not adding a layer of thermal resistance by way of underlay. Good luck with your project.
Why would you consider floating the floor when the manufacturer states it has to be glued? We always glue all of our wood floors down...the last time we floated a floor (because the customer wanted it floated) they then asked if we would uplift it and glue it down due to the feel and limitations of floating a floor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Which manufacturer? The one I mentioned above says you can float it. But I appreciate your feedback & experience guys. I’ll glue it I just hope I don’t lose too much heat through the SLC + glue Vs laying the herringbone straight over foil UFH.
I though it said you have to stick over ufh? Anyway it should do, much better job as others have stated. You will still need slc, underlay will not fix a uneven floor Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is from the Wood 4 floors website regarding UFH. I'm still wondering how you would even float a herringbone as soon as you start to tap the staves up the whole floor would move and you would have lightning gaps in the floor its not like floating a plank.