Hi, We're doing a project with 180m2 of timber first and second floor. Floor build up is 22mm egger p5 flooring, 20mm xps pre grooved ufh boards, suitable primer for the aluminium on the boards, ufh pipes laid in, 10MM SCREED (TBC which) finished with porcelain tiles with flexible adhesive. Timber floors are pretty stable and well supported - Not much bounce. Options currently are: Instarmac Hydrobond - water based to 10mm thick Ardex NA - Bag & Bottle - latex based to 10mm thick FBall 300 - to 10mm thick UZIN 196 fibre reinforced - to 10mm thick OR any suggestions? Also looked into the cheaper Mapei renovation, but told it will crack like crazy when drying. Any tips / advice really welcome. Done loads of screeding to concrete floors, but never before to timber suspended. Don't want to mess it up, so need you boy's who have done it before. Thanks in advance. Tom
Used reno no end on timber floors and never had it crack, in fact it's all I've mainly used the past few years. 196 is decent but bag doesn't go far.
Well NA is around £30 a bag. I do t really have that in the budget for it, but I don’t want to end up having issues, with it after laying all the pipework. Water based is better over bag and bottle?
Fball 700 is good but expensive. But Na over ply is great as it can take some movement and never cracks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yep the 3240 That's my main one I use when on timber floors to be honest. Never had any issues at all and does go quite far per bag.
If I could get a better deal on NA then I'd be using that everywhere but the size of some jobs I do just can't justify the price to the customer. Have been using alot of the fball 1500 as well lately which I do rate but on concrete where its doable.
I’d use a decoupling board which I’d adhere over the pipes (4mm board) then prime and 6mm flex compound unless you can make some good mm up with the adhesive on either side of the boards
Can anyone explain the benefit of the bag in bottle over the water based versions? Obviously the bag and bottle is pre measured for you, but do the latex versions offer more flex?
Do you get any crazing or cracking when it dries out? Instarmac rep mentioned that might happen, but perhaps to push their product? I'm guessing if that happened it could always be patched up after?
No never, I've laid in at 30mm thick in.sections many times. The rep will tell you that of course if he's trying to sell you a competitor who he works for
You would be best off speaking to the tile supplier and the ufh supplier and get them to ok a product. Fball 300 is a defo no no Last ufh project we did was with omni and they specify Tilemaster flexfinish. It ticks all the boxes and the ufh panels are primer with a matching primer.
4mm thickness they do however go upto 15mm but you wouldn’t need that, 4mm would suit. Pm me and I can send you over options and costs.