Lots of this stuff around at about £20 sqm online and I’m guessibg a flooring fitter will probably pick it up even cheaper from their supplier What are the professionals thoughts on it ? Wood parquet is the look I’m wanting but I’m no big earner and I’ve looked into reclaimed and Lvt copies and seen this stuff recently Thanks
We’re doing one at the moment. Looks really nice. Once it’s fitted you can’t tell the difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So what is the downside ? I’m giessing can only sand it down so many times ? But most people I know who’ve had wood Floors have usually moved home before doing that and I think one friend has done it once
Most of the parquet I use is 10mm PAR, much prefer it. Obviously works out more expensive by the time you have a plywood subfloor and two layers of glue, subfloor & blocks. I often use it over underfloor heating.
That’s what we do, 9mm ply stuck down. Glued and headless Pinner to fix in place. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh you don’t lay it on a screed downstairs I thought you would have So You glue plywood to the concrete? But it is ok on top of underfloor heating
yep, always a plywood subfloor, brick bonded. Two layers if over UFH, 9 & 9 or 9 & 6, alternate directions. Fine over UFH, if you get correct MC of subfloor, ply and Oak. Also need temp sensor in ply below parquet to cut heating out at max floor temp, i normally suggest 24-25 degrees to allow for any deviation and hot spots. Fid box too somewhere under the parquet is a good idea. I think you can do a lot more with 9/10mm overlay, I quite often do curves around bullnose and curtail steps, right scribing too, much easier to work with 10mm. Overlay was around a long time before T&G.
How do you curve round the bullnose mate? Got one to do on this job I’m on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Template and inline flute cutter. I use random length oak for borders normally, I prefer the look. Same width as the blocks, 70mm, 80mm for the back piece though, so you get 10mm coverage under the skirting. Then obviously 140 showing all round. This makes it easier to do curves because you need a wide ish, 180mm, long piece of timber to be able to stagger the joints on the curve. I haven’t got any pictures of setting up the curve or using templates but this gives you an idea- (sorry I haven’t got a link to the photo just the page it’s on)- http://brierleymills.co.uk/about/ And - http://brierleymills.co.uk/parquet-flooring/ I’ve done quite a few, unfortunately I don’t take enough photos, or get an opportunity to go back once complete to take some nice images.
That’s quality James. Really nice work. I’ve seen some of your photos online. I Thought you needed a wider plank for curved border as you lose the width when you take it round. Only got 20mm so I think il have to route it down to 10mm then template. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, I appreciate the positive replies. Wider the better with the planks, it’s obviously easier to stagger the joints with wider boards. I normally use 180 because it’s readily available. Can get around a reasonable curve with that. I’ve got a couple of simple but nice curved borders to upload to the website following a curved handrail in a Georgian house.
there is a 10 mm parquet on direct wood flooring and in the reviews someone has posted a picture of them laying the blocks directly onto concrete floor... is this possible ?? also in the q and a it says this Q: Hi i have a concrete floor and was wondering how it is stuck to the floor? Does it need a membrane thing ? My builder want to know the depth of the floor so i can have my bifolds put in so it flows from kitchen floor out? Sorry does this make sense? Answers (1) Direct Wood Flooring 12/10/17 A: Hi thanks for getting in touch. I can confirm that you will need to put a liquid damp proof membrane then glue this direct to the floor therefore this thickness would be the thickness of the wood flooring. If you need any further assistance please get in touch. Kind regards Steven please advise would obviously save a lot of money stuck directly to concrete floor
The flooring is an overlay and will need a ply base. I would suggest that their expert isn't so expert. The advice you're getting here is.
Thank you for clearing that up So at what thickness does the flooring stop being an overlay I’ve seen 18mm and 22mm stuff but it’s obviously more expensive than 10mm Just trying to workout what is going to be cheaper buying thicker, screening and laying directly down or ply and overlay Thanks
