Solid Floor Dilemma

Discussion in 'Subfloor Preparation' started by andyh1983, Jan 4, 2013.

  1. andyh1983

    andyh1983 Member

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    Hi All,

    I am currently renovating my house where the front room has a solid floor covered in what appears to be vinyl tiles stuck down with bitumen.

    A number of the tiles have already lifted, which I have removed, but need to work out what the best course of action is.

    I have introduced a partition in the room to make a hallway and I was hoping to lay real wood flooring there. The other side of the partition is a lounge where I wanted to lay normal carpet.

    My questions are:

    1. Should I lift all the vinyl tiles or are they acting as the dpm? If I lift them, would it be advisable to lay a liquid DPM and then a Self levelling compound?
    2. If I chose to leave the tiles in situ, are there any products which will bond with such a surface and if so, what?

    Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

    Andy
     
  2. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    Different ways to go mate.
    But the way I would do it is -

    1, take up the tiles
    2. scrape as much adhesive as possible off the floor
    3. Screed the floor with Ardex NA or f.ball stopgap green bag with 114 liquid
    4. Lay Ardex dpm 1c or f.ball F75 ( 2 coats )
    5. Prime & Screed again with same same.

    Then lay amtico / Karndean in hall or float wood or laminate.
    Carpet won't have any problems.
     
  3. oddbod_jnr

    oddbod_jnr Well-Known Member

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    as above but if its a solid wood dont float it ,fully stick it down ,if its an engeneered board then you can float it.
    you must uplift all the old tiles and remove as much adhesive as possible.
     
  4. andyh1983

    andyh1983 Member

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    Hi Daz,
    Thanks for the quick response.

    I was worried you were going to say lift them but i guess its the proper way of doing the job! under point 5 you mention priming the floor - is there any particular one you would suggest?

    Thanks

    Andy
     
  5. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    Any really but best to buy the one that matches.so f.ball use P131 or ardex P51 I think.
     
  6. Matt

    Matt Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    if your installing a solid wood floor then the bitumen needs to be completely removed and then a surface dpm product. If its a engineered product you may be able to float it.

    Do you know what flooring product you will be using as this will make the difference to the prep you need.
     
  7. tarkett85

    tarkett85 Well-Known Member

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    if bonding direct to floor you need a screed with high compression and tensile strength mostly these are water based although mapei's latexplan can be used
     
  8. andyh1983

    andyh1983 Member

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    Well I'm planning on laying solid wood flooring in the hallway and carpeting the lounge.

    I accept that I'm going to have to lay levelling compound twice, but after already blowing the budget I'm trying to save a few pennies were I can. What are the best/reasonably priced materials? I've already looked at f-ball green bag and Its working out over £350! Any other suggestions?
     
  9. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    Laybond Screedmaster ultimate
     
  10. scotflooring

    scotflooring Well-Known Member

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    There is a big difference there mate, green bag won't be strong enough and by the sounds of it you are baulking at the price to do it right
     
  11. Matt

    Matt Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Is there any reason why you want a SOLID wood flooring? An ENGINEERED wood flooring is normally the same thickness, its still real wood and it normally can be sanded the same amount of times.

    The only way a professional can normally tell the difference between a solid wood flooring and a engineered wood floor is by the gaps that normally appear around winter time in a solid. In other words a Engineered actually looks better through the seasons.
     
  12. g4l

    g4l Well-Known Member

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    No offense op but get someone in to do it.
     
  13. andyh1983

    andyh1983 Member

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    I'm not baulking about doing the job right, but as I'm not a professional I am simply looking at all solutions/costs and will then try and make an informed decision on how to proceed.

    Why do you say green bag wont be strong enough?
     
  14. andyh1983

    andyh1983 Member

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    Well my other half chose the flooring and it only comes in solid and not engineered.
     
  15. g4l

    g4l Well-Known Member

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    What are you going to do regarding the necessary kit?

    Mixer with correct paddle
    Large mixing bucket
    Multicutter
    A2 trowel
    Screed trowel
    Spike roller
    Lo tack masking tape
    Chop saw
    Jig saw
    Hand tools
    +£10 credit on your phone (to ring someone when you feck it up)
     
  16. oddbod_jnr

    oddbod_jnr Well-Known Member

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    Agreed get a pro in dont do it yourself may cost you less in the long run
     
  17. tarkett85

    tarkett85 Well-Known Member

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    use mapei latexplan, it's the ONLY latex based levelling compound strong enough to take a wood floor other than using a waterbased one
     
  18. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    Why isn't green bag strong enough?
     
  19. andyh1983

    andyh1983 Member

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    Would there be a problem using a water based screed? It seems from some of the replies latex SLC is not the way to go if using real wood flooring.
     
  20. bournemouth

    bournemouth Super Moderator

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    Nothing wrong with using a water mix screed as long as its the correct one if your laying it yourself at least get a professional to prep the floor you may do the best DIY job ever seen to man but if your floor isn't prepped correctly you will be getting an ear full from the mrs when it goes wrong
     

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