Timber sub floor

Discussion in 'Subfloor Preparation' started by Gavin39, Jul 12, 2023.

  1. Gavin39

    Gavin39 Member

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    Hello.

    I'll kick off by describing the absolute nightmare I endured laying engineered wood herringbone flooring (click floating).

    I like many others it seems massively miss judge the importance of a good subfloor. Don't get me wrong I didn't fit the flooring knowing the sub floor was shit.

    So my subfloor is timber joists propped on dwarf walls covered in floor boards and chipboard. I covered all of this in 4mm ply (pointless) iv come to learn, in an attempt to level flstten ridges. then the fibre screwfix underlay tiles followed by the herringbone 150mmx600mm click floating floor. Well it's been a shambles. It cracks and creaks when walked on. All expansion gaps around 10_15mm skirting fitted after sitting on top.

    So fast forward I'm asking you guys for help. The engineered wood floor is coming up. Iv ordered quickstep 4762. Along with the underlay for uneven floors. Iv managed to get hold off some 9mm birch ply from work. I plan to belt sand all the floorboards add the 9mm birch ply followed by underlay the the quickstep.

    So any additional tips information on potential feather screeds iv seen it referred to on here will be appreciated. Thanks sorry about long boring post
     
  2. Ryanf4888

    Ryanf4888 Well-Known Member

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    Quickstep signature? Lovely laminate, quickstep is the best gear in my opinion and as long as you get the subfloor flat enough it will be fine, depending how bad the floorboards are usually 9mm plywood would sort any slightly cupped boards no problem but depends the condition but if you’re giving them a sand first then will be spot on.
     
  3. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like you’re going down the right path now. Belt sand the cupped boards and 9mm ply will help massively.
     
  4. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    As above. Great advice
     
  5. Gavin39

    Gavin39 Member

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    Thanks for the replies. Good to know I'm kind of on the correct path now. Never will I lay floating click herringbone flooring again. So brittle. It's a job for you guys only I reckon
     
  6. Ryanf4888

    Ryanf4888 Well-Known Member

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    Not even us guys want to lay floating click, straight or herringbone haha!
     
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  7. Gavin39

    Gavin39 Member

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    I'm gonna use expanding polyurethane glue to glue down the 9mm birch plywood to the floorboards. Do you guys agree this is a good choice of glue? Thanks
     
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  8. Ryanf4888

    Ryanf4888 Well-Known Member

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    What’s your address Gavin? Just so I know to avoid ever going round for the uplift! I would just nail or screw it down.
     
  9. Gavin39

    Gavin39 Member

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    Oh really. You think I should avoid using the polyurethane glue. I'm guessing that's what you meant. The foaming expanding of the glue may cause the ply to lift slightly?

    If that's your point I see that perhaps if the screws were too far apart the ply could 'belly'?? Iv never used it. In my trade pva is all I use so I'm none the wiser on other glues. Thanks
     
  10. Gavin39

    Gavin39 Member

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    On second reading I understand what you mean. Uplift as in taking the floor up . Glueing is excessive then. I'll screw it. 100% won't nail it tho.
     
  11. Gavin39

    Gavin39 Member

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    Hi chaps. So iv belt sanded as much as possible. Iv then laid my 9mm birch ply (not glued).

    There are dips and levels I need to bring up now. Iv purchased some mapei ultraplan 3240 screed. I plan to pour ontop of the 9mm in places along with ontop of the concrete ring beam in a small area.

    I'm gonna prime the ply before application. Can anyone point me in the right direction of a primer I can use on both timber and concrete. Also anything I'm missing,overlooking?

    Thanks
     
  12. tarkett85

    tarkett85 Well-Known Member

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    Eco prim t plus is the primer you want


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  13. Gavin39

    Gavin39 Member

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    Thanks.
     

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