Got a job to price just for latex ready for another company to lay stick down wood floor, it's a new screed 2 months old ive not been to tested yet but builder said his meter is reading 80 so will need a dpm what is the best latex and dpm to use for this as never prepped for a wwod stick down before does it have to a certain latex for the wood glue strength, I have a lot of balls 300 left over from a job so hopefully you will all say 300 is the best to use
Don't use latex :?: what do you mean by that Matt When you say dpm as usual do you mean skim floor then dpm the latex again or is there another way, its been a very long week and brain not working properly as in processing what I read
if the floor is new it really shouldnt need screeding to get flat? a latex based screed isnt strong enough to glue a solid wood floor to, water based is far stronger
Ah latex based screed I see what you mean now, thats where I was getting confused as down here in farmers land we all talk funny and have 1 word for multiple things like latex anything that goes on the floor is called latex not screed you either have water based latex or milk mix latex.
I'd be dubious about doing this as a friend of mine is being taken to court by said client on a very simular job where he screeded the floor with 300 and its failed, wood installed by others over his screed which he followed everything to the letter by using 300. And everyone is saying the wrong screed was used including the independant inspector.
Well i'm trying not to get involved and keeping an open mind so I ain't gonna start posting anything on this until its been to court and is all finished with, don't want to ruffel anyones feathers. The inspection was Sid and thats all I'm gonna say on it as he is the Guru of wood. So we shall see.
thats not good jay How can we recommend 300 which is a water based high strength mix when a wood pro says its wrong wtf what the hell are we sposed to use then? takes the mick when its gets like 'he says, she says' :evil:
We dont know the in's and out's of the case, for all we know it may of been mixed wrong or wrong primer or not even 300 screed used or maybe the products used failed and its FBALLS issue ? We dont know what the true story is here. 300 is fine under real wood if installed correct and obviously the product does actually meet the spec that the manufacturer has said it does!
only problem I find with f76 straight on to the subfloor is, if the screeds a bit ruff it sucks it all up and you need twice as much dpm. I guess it wouldnt matter if you were using the 2 coat system would it?
if it sucks in you need to keep coating until you get a 'glass' like finish. Can need many more coats than 2. Thats why i dont like using epoxy and i advice Mapei 1k turbo along with there products. Defo got the best stuff out there at the moment.
Now I find this slighly strange as Uzin do a DPM that you have to sand blind as you apply it, then next morning sweep off all the sand and you're left with a rough surface for the screed to key to. Got laybond tech scratching their heads at the moment on a faliure of their one coat DPM. The job was at a hardware store over christmas just gone, we followed everything to the letter. Now back in March 4 tiles started to pop up so I meet with tech removed the tiles and he goes you've overlapped the DPM to much 6 inchs overlap, out comes the note pad well fella you were here on the day and here in my notes is what we talked about and you said 5 to 6 inch overlap would be ok. So replaced tiles and move on. Now though the whole lot has gone back to its liquid state and the screed is coming up with the tiles all over the floor. And their still scratching their heads 1 month later.
what bit dont you understand Jay? the sand blinding one coat dpm? of the second coat over lapping? Also what exactly has failed on that job? the epoxy or the screed?
Sorry Matt its been a long day on a job with everyone in my way and feelin the pain now just installed 200m2 of Fruedenburg rubber sheet which I ain't looking forward to the welding tomorrow. The bit I was refering to was the roughness of the sub-floor protruding through the DPM, when the Uzin one's I've used want you to make them rough for the screed to key to that was all really. Different product I suppose and different rules to follow. The second coat overlap was on a job I done at christmas just gone, I asked the techie how much if at all do I need to overlap each pour of DPM and in his words 5 - 6 inches should be fine. But when the 4 tiles came up he started to back peddle and said I shouldn't have overlaped it and more or less blamed me so ok I'll take it on the chin and move on replaced the tiles that was March. 1 month ago the whole lot is coming up, so again I meet the rep and 2 techies down there who start poking and proding to which point I say so its safe to assume that your previous theory that being the overlap was to much is wrong, yes it certainly seems so is the reply. Its wierd Matt the stuff is turning back to its liquid form, when you pull up a tile it comes up with the screed attached to the back of the tile, and the DPM is all squishy and it seems that a layer gets left on the floor and some on the back of the screed, plus its gone all glittery.
i have seen that before twice! The first time the dpm was subject to moister in the curing process which stopped the centre core from curing. The second time the chap didnt realise he had to mix the two components together after he tipped part 'a' into part 'b' (ye, dont ask LOL) So this chap tiped a into b and then without mixing simply tipped the lot on the floor and rolled it out. Now some areas set rapid and other never set but it set in layers as such. It was fine to touch if not tacky :shock: but the screed went down. Now obviously the tacky areas never cured and the areas that had cured but still had wet stuff under it never cured. Not saying the above is your issue tho. But sounds similar to one of the above. End of the day if the product is mixed correctly and the tub you mixed the product in has set then there is no reason why the rest of the floor wont set unless something like water has been added in the curing process or even in the mixing process. But like i say, I DONT LIKE EPOXY, in fact i don't like any product that you have to mix together. To much room for a mistake.
I remember a job that did that, my mate had it with f76, it never went off in the hallway and they worked out it was water coming in from around the door when they left it over night. Always used accellerator with it since then in the hope it sets before anything can happen to it. Using the 1k turbo next week for the first time hopefully I wont need the epoxy anymore
Make sure you spread the 1K turbo as thin as possible. Your only trying to make the concrete change colour. Avoid getting any build up.
