The gripper is mitred so that the underlay is cut into the miter. The tape holds the underlay in place when fitting the carpet. The reason why i miter the gripper and cut the underlay into it is so that you have a soft edge accross the the edge of stair rather than a hard lump where the gripper would be. Does that make sence?
I fit the gripper on the riser like that, except I put the verticals on to length first and the riser gripper on second. Better finish IMO as the shamfered edge goes the full length of the upright.
Done a couple of jobs lately with gripper on the risers, all i have to say is dam you! its so much better. Gonna have to do it on all jobs now= takes longer. time is money. Great advice
well the MRS thought i was just being nice and changing the carpet for her. Sort of had to change it in the end. She made me decorate the walls also. O and new blinds, and new light fittings....
well the MRS thought i was just being nice and changing the carpet for her. Sort of had to change it in the end. She made me decorate the walls also. O and new blinds, and new light fittings....[/quote] :roll: whoops, sorry mate. Know the feeling, quick tidy up turns into a complete overhaul. Blame the lifestyle section on sky.
Christ Matt is there nothing you dont know ! :shock: Never thought of doing it like that but will have a go next week, how do you get to hold on the sides, do you just tuck a 1/4 round like normal ?
Not sure i understand the question? The gap on the sides should be a normal gripper gap. So 2/3rds the thickness of the carpet to BS. (bull crap rule tho if ask me. Most accurate way or working out gripper gaps is 3/4 the thickness of the carpet once compressed by finger and thumb! ) If you are asking on how to stretch across the front then that i cant really answer by writing on here. To hard a answer. Can demonstrate easy but that would mean you would have to book on a training course with me ! Here is another pic, done this demo step last week for some 16-18 year old on a apprenticeship i attended to help out with training.
Ye plenty, i dont understand how come people in suits earn lots of money when us lot abusing our body's to earn a living struggle to make money. I also dont know how to cook. O and how do they get that glass ship in a bottle, that one i really struggle with.
I was referring to the edge , on that Picture the post makes it easy I was thinking when the step sticks out more ie no post on the inside edge but I suppose you just tuck it in , or bit of spray to hold it
You tuck the carpet as normal. No spray or nails. Hence the finish is solid and the same as else where. No nasty dips from nail holes or floppy bits bent over that the hoover will slowly pull up.
Excellent , the only time I have used that method is when I have had to do a bullnose in one piece , two in a house recently grrr
Take a look at Flooring Assessments Facebook site I have posted some photos of Matt working with some young apprentices down in Devon, you will see the correct way to do winders and turns with gripper. If anyone can find the time we are trying to promote our Facebook site and the more information we put on their the better the site will become. Thanks Dave http://www.facebook.com/pages/Flooring- ... 8102129408
This is a great tip. I was always taught to turn the carpet under, but this gives a much better finish. I only discovered this forum and this thread the other day so I haven't had a chance to try this on any turns yet as I've only had straight stairs this week, but I've been doing it on the landing and mid landing risers and it looks top notch. The only thing I've been doing different than in your pics is I've been mitering the gripper at the bottom of the riser as well so that the chamfer on the gripper goes right into the corner. Matt, do you also do this on your straights as well and cut your straights a little bigger? or do you just put a strip of gripper along the tread and riser?
