hello I already have purchased some solid oak flooring, 90mm wide I have also purchased Elka 3 in 1 Lay (Dpm/acoustic/adhesive. I already have these, so don’t really want to purchase anything else (funds) The floor is solid concrete, with a little bit of residue (from old parquet, hence why I chose the 3in1) There are a few areas, around a metre square x 2 that need to be levelled, I want a water based, and something that can be feathered out to almost nothing. It also needs to be purchased locally, I have toolstation, screwfix, topps and tile giant (I’m in Rayleigh, Essex) I’ve seen MAPEI ULTIMATE LEVELLER 1210 remember I am putting the 3 in 1 over top, says it goes down to 1mm? I’ll get the primer as well. Or is there anything better that sticks well, is strong and feathers out. Thank you (Need it local really)
Throw that underlay away it’s horrendous the wood needs to be bonded directly to the subfloor, first you need to grind the concrete clean, then do a moisture test followed by a liquid dpm then a high compression strength screed don’t do it any other way or you will be wasting your money because it will fail. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve already purchased it, and spent a bit, the manufacture stated for solid wood. I residue is bitumen, it’s very slight just trowel markings. The cost to fully grind and level is beyond me. I really don’t know what to do. Elka said it would work.
Ok guys, so it’s grind, prime, liquid dpm and self level ? Can you give me the products/method you would recommend in order. Have a great evening.
First of all you need to get a moisture reading of the subfloor. How old is the house? The wood will move on that underlay as it’s not strong enough to hold solid wood so make sure you leave plenty of expansion. The floor needs to be super flat or your floor will bounce around. It will bounce around a little anyway as the solid boards are often bowed. If the floors damp you will need to put down some kind of damp proof membrane. I use to put down proper damp proof membrane sheets under them as the underlay is only a vapour barrier and won’t protect against high levels of moisture. It is achievable but it’s a diy job Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Grind, surface dpm then prime and screed, don’t prime first or the dpm will fail. You really need to take some accurate moisture readings in the concrete before we can recommend products, it can be less expensive to get in a professional to do the testing and install than having a bash yourself, the testing equipment is expensive and any good installer will do it as part of the job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To add to that it’s part of British Standards. If a professional doesn’t take moisture readings then they aren’t doing the job right.
I had a guy come round 11 months ago, with a metre, and said DPM was perfect, he never got back to me. Ok I’ll have to scrap the glue in a roll. House in 1960’s it had Parquet, and has a DPM. Floor or dusty, it’s been scraped off a year. I have seen posts on here that I can use Arditex NA then a Arden Dpm and then another layer, then I round posts of fitters saying it’s a little weak, and others not agree and say it’s fine ( this is 90mm wide x 18mm oak). So what do I use? Other posts say use Mapei Latexplan NA it’s stronger!!! Both of the another can go over this residue. So what products are strong enough? Or do you recommend others, I want to purchase this week please.
Did he leave a box on the floor or drill a hole into the concrete and put something in it? If not he didn’t do a proper moisture test and you’re back to where you started. As for both screeds you mentioned they are both too soft for solid wood, I would be looking at something with a compression strength of 25n/mm2 upwards and flexural of 7n/mm2 upwards to handle the stress. You will need to take a Rh% test so you know what kind of dpm to use and a test takes a minimum of 72 hours to take and you will need to remove all of the old adhesive residue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes it was a box, and a lead a probe went into the centre, I remember the reading was 50, as we said bullseye. Ok I’ll grind it off.... is there a product recommendation and sequence please.
Grind it all down smooth and remove all of the residue, Ardex dpm 1 c at 250 microns, Ardex P4 primer or P82 then Ardex K11 screed allowing drying times then fully bond the wood to the floor with your preferred adhesive, make sure to acclimatise the wood prior to install and leave expansion gaps of at least 15mm around the full perimeter of the room and doorways. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you, does Ardex dpm 1 c at 250 microns, need a primer or anything first? This is your preferred brand / pricepoint ? Kind regards
No mate you don’t prime before dpm just make sure the concrete is clean, dry and level and follow manufacturer instructions. I mentioned Ardex because I like to stick with one brand throughout the prep work if anything fails there’s no blame game then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Solid wood needs to be fully bonded to the subfloor. I would suggest that the advice you have been given has come from someone who quite simply does not have enough knowledge to be giving advice on wood flooring.
Ok mk1 hire do DFG200 floor grinder... is there certain heads I need for bitumen residue? Or something I should look out for ? I see latexplan was mentioned above. Thanks
Ok I’ve got an area to repair it’s around 1.5 square and 25mm deep, am I best with sand / cement sbr mix as self level will be expensive, I need something the DPM 1c can have DPm 1c over the top. Or is there a reasonable price self level, repair screed that’s comparable. Solid floor no damp course but want to go belt and braces.?
It read 50? That’s really low. it would be a false reading as 90% of the time floors in the 60s don’t have a effective Dpm. the floor is breathing so you can get low readings. Are the skirting off? Can you see a Dpm sheet around the perimeter ?
I though that, no it has no Dpm 100%. That’s why I’m treating it as though it’s 90. So will be using DPM 1C
