Hi all. I'm planning a refurb of a 1978 ex-council flat in East London. It's our family home and a long term restoration project! We're looking to do the entire ground floor in LVT for durability. The ground floor is about 30m^2. However the ground floor is a RC concrete slab, cast onto piled foundations and sitting on earth. As a result it acts a as bloody great heatsink and thermal bridge to the ground. I'm not too concerend about losing thermal mass as the ceilings are the same 300mm concrete slab too. I'd like to insulate the ground floor either with Celotex or foam boards but I don't want to lose too much ceiling height as i'm 190cm tall and the ceilings are 225cm. I'm aware that some LVT can be laid floating and some has to be glued, what I don't know is what would work as a good underfloor insulation. I'm looking for an experienced LVT fitter to advise and also to fit in a couple of months. cheers!
Hiya, i've had a look at Jumpax. It looks like a good sound insulator but a poor thermal insulator (they don't even quote thermal values). My issue is thermal insulation not sound insulation.
Karndean offer their type of Jumpax, called Versilay.. The link below may offer the info youre looking for.. If not, a good search on google will find what you need.. http://www.karndean.com/en-gb/floors/range-overview/opus?link=mm
Yeah it's basically the same as jumpax Apparently it has a thermal resistance of 0.13 m2k/w....what ever that means? I know your feet won't be as cold!!
.... Basically the higher the resistance the better it is at insulating heat. However some datasheets quote resistance, others quote conductivity. Conductivity is the opposite of resistance so the lower the better: Resistance (units are km2/W): Higher is better Conductivity (units are W/mk) : Lower is better Also to make it more confusing, the industry usually uses U-values U-Values (units are W/m²): Lower is better Apparently they teach this at GCSE now. which is probably a good thing for the future generation. It's all a bit like stereo systems in the 1980's 90's quoting peak power, RMS, PMPO etc. Whatever looks better for marketing!
The trouble is you will either get one or the other for the type of product your looking to install.....similar to the carpet industry the type of underlay you require to let heat through is basically crap as heat needs to pass through it.....a decision on either or I believe is on the way mate......you buying the materials yourself and just need a fitter or supply and fit?
Hiya, I'd rather do the basic stripout and let the fitter supply their preferred LVT. What i'm looking for is a good thermal insulation that is compatible with LVT. It seems some underfloor heating insulation materials would work too. They basically stop heat going "down" but allow it to go "up." That would work to stop the concerete conducting all the heat out of the property and into the ground.
Just stumbled across the Superhomes site which has lots of guidance for conrete floors and other insulation materials
Decided: Versilay it is. Turns out it's got better themal properties than the green fibreboards. Now need a fitter who can supply and fit 30m^2 of Versilay and Karndean in East London!
Do good smooth screed (make sure there is not damp) and fit on top thick plywood -12mm plus and use f3 to glue it plus plenty screws to the concrete . If you have problem with the main door just fit entrance mat there.
using f3 to glue the plywood the the concrete and tight it with screws. If you not use glue the ply will be bounce to the concrete, but the floor must to be smooth. I did it few time and its working good and keeps the LVT/LVP away from the concrete. It is 2/3 degrees celsius wormer then the normal concrete.
Hi. We talking for an idea not for flooring rules! I don't know why you ask me for floor training? So what do you mean? You newer see some one to fit plywood 18mm on the screed with 10cm screws by 20cm gap? (18mm not 6m)
